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Went to get a replacement yesterday but the square hole is offset 3mm to the original 57mm from door edge. Also will "bolt through" handle bolts catch now It's off centre to the spindle? Does anyone else see what I'm saying? Cheers, Andy...

Phil, can you put me on the list as well please..... I don't need it or want it but just starting to feel "left out" ......😂😂 Cheers, Andy

Just bringing this to the top in case anyone interested in going hadn't seen the previous post. Cheers, Andy

Still up for grabs Cheers, Andy

Intriguing, when you "pare" with a chisel is it not the object of the exercise to achieve a flat surface? I regularly pare suitably flat hinge chops and "splice" beds with ease using a flat chisel, anything other would be pure folly would it not? Cheers, Andy

Crikey ****, hope you get well soon and I'd give up on the scrumping...😂😂 Cheers, Andy

You may want to edit the headline post as it's saying found Cheers, Andy

You sound pretty certain there Jacob. Do you understand how ridiculous a well proportioned door looks with 40-50mm taken off the stiles? Let alone the damage incurred to the joints.? Cheers, Andy

You could try cramping it up tightly and seeing if you get any movement. If the door is too wide with enough to spare on the cross rails, cutting through the ends of them and reinstating tenons is doable. Maybe it's dowelled together in which case the previous cut and shut method with...

Personally speaking this is just best left alone unless suitable embellishment is used to cover the problems. I can never see the point in plugging up gaps that quite likely will still be detectable. Now, if it's causing a draught, by all means plug it up but tucked in and unseen. I think the...

At least you have the perfect system to set up and track it out the door now.... 😵😵😂 Cheers, Andy

How did it go chap? Cheers, Andy

To me this is less about brute force and more about applied techniques. With enough time and materials for moving things a little at a time a lot can be established. As an apprentice on my own I made the mistake of removing the sliding bed off of the tennoner onto a trolley. Luckily it didn't...

Did I really just see him plunge those 2 cuts unsupported without holding the timber against the fence he made? I'm sure the stuff was wobbling as he cut it. He should have raised the jig height and extended it far enough out to grip the stuff safely. It would also be advisable to have a lip...

Just a note to let you all know that the charity event for 10th September has been called off. Cheers, Andy

I believe it's called Crown Cut and was/is required to match some original block flooring. The face of these blocks need to have the outside radius of the growth rings in line with the surface. The picture shows that effect and the (slightly darker) area under the cooker I previously did...

Thanks for the pointers folks. I'll be looking to a 3tpi 1/2". Cheers, Andy

Ok, I've got to rip down some seriously old pitch pine and wondering if anyone has successfully upped the blade from a standard 1/2" ? This is the machine http://www.woodworkuk.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2561 Ian at Tuff Saws can do me 3 tpi on 1/2" but I was toying with the idea of...

Is the head worn or the hole in the lever cap ? Off the top of my head I think the lever cap hole is slightly countersunk to stop it drifting up and down the cutter assembly ? Are planes of a similar nature not that easily available in Slovakia? Cheers, Andy

Even with a structure behind it?