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I've heard good things about Osmo Raw on white or pale coloured woods, but what's it going to look like like on Olive Ash, where the wide centre section of the board is brown? I bought a tin from Ax but I have a feeling I may need to exchange it..... -Rob

I'd have to take issue with the ''woodworking is easy. Dead easy'' Mike. If you make simple stuff and don't 'push the envelope' then it is fairly straightforward. It becomes a lot more difficult when you do something more ambitious and then you really can be up against it unless you can think...

That says an awful lot; so what went wrong? - Rob

Count me in please Mike...I've also replied 'elsewhere' - Rob

Yep and I would instantly take it up if I were within striking distance. Edit: the OP hails from Cheshire so doable for a nice run out in the Spring - Rob

Tried that with a very small hatchet and a sledge to belt it with; I ended up breaking the handle on the axe :( I had a little more success in roughly 'squaring' the blocks but they were still far too big to get anywhere near the lathe - Rob

I've actually taken them all down to the dump as the chunks are too big to process without a chainsaw, although I have done something with the smallest lump nearest the door in the pic, but that took me over an hour in the lathe to get it to a manageable piece that looked like a rough turned...

If you use a really thin, springy rule about 50mm away from the edge and then do the sums (not my strongest suite :D ) the angle that the blade is raised by is less than one degree, which as you say, makes little or no difference - Rob

Yep, just seen that Pete...my error. In theory then, the OP should be OK provided the door between the closet and the workshop is a decent fit and the fan vents all the nasty stuff outside - Rob

A great cause and one for the diary...I'll see if I can make it this year. I was 'touched' by the big C a few years ago so I know all about the 'angst' - Rob

I'm afeard that's the nature of social media. Personally, I don't use FB any more 'cos it drove me batty, but I do like InstaG and anything that takes longer than 10 seconds to read I just 'click away' from. Look for example, at certain tool supplier posts on InstaG; generally speaking you can...

Yep, loads of unnecessary waffle there, but interesting none the less. If it doesn't 'grab' me inside 15 seconds, I 'click away' which is the reason that many posts on social media by professional companies (not all it has to be said) are short, succinct and to the point - Rob

Use it both ways, backwards and forwards...it's a bit of 'learning curve' and feels awkward to use at first, but persevere. Pine is tricky stuff to work with and you'll get better results on a harder, closer grained timber. The cutter you've just made is a bit ambitious; I think you'd find it...

Just to add my two euros to the pot (not that they're going to be worth much shortly :D ), Mike G and company are spot on. I've also been a professional maker and have been mangling sawdust for over 45 years. Heed the excellent advice given - Rob

It's not the hose or flow rate, but the filter. If you're working only with mdf, the very fine dust produced will blow straight through the filter and back out into the 'shop, simply because it won't cope with that sort of dust. That type of machine is great for larger sized dust particles as...

+1. The 'what' is infinitely more important than the 'who' - Rob

An old uni tutor who lives fairly nearby let me have some largish chunks of cherry from her tree that had a severe haircut the other day. Apart from a little hand axe and large sledge to belt it with, I've nowt else to make it into usable bowl blanks. Having smashed the handle on the very old...

Agreed, they look great. I've dabbled a bit with pyrography and it's an art that requires a very delicate touch; sadly way beyond my ham fisted capabilities. Done well by somebody who knows their way round a pyrography pen, the results can be stunning. I use a basic pen now just to sign and date...

From the HSE website.... ...'There should be an effective dust extraction system in use whenever MDF is machined or sanded. This is often termed local exhaust ventilation (LEV). Use vacuum cleaners with high performance filters (HEPA) to clean up MDF dust, or use a hose connected to the LEV...

If you're working with only with MDF, the Ax machine won't suit; it's really designed for coarse p/t chippings and sawdust from a tablesaur. Ideally, the machine lurking in the corner of Keith's video clip, the Numatic NVD 750 is better able to handle very fine dust - Rob