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Japanese timbers are not so very different to those found in the UK and other temperate climates. Hinoki I'm not sure about, but there's plenty of cypress around and Japanese cherry is an almost identical species to the variety found in the US and easily obtainable in the UK. Japanese Elm...

The other alternative is to use a froe and 'beetle' as oak splits easily along the grain. I invested in a Ray Isles froe recently to split some short walnut logs and it's relatively easy (and quite good fun) to do - Rob

Yep, and I've got Dust Deputy Super but you'll need to take out a second mortgage and the fittings supplied aren't particularly up to snuff either - Rob

Mike Huntley is a very good pal so I bought mine directly from him. It's a decent, fairly robust Japanese saw with a tooth configuration suited to work with oak (or other moderate hardwoods) at the bench for joinery purposes. For ripping big chunks of oak I'd suggest you'd need something with a...

I have one and it's definitely not suited to ripping down blocks of oak; Mike's suggestion of a cheap hardpoint saw is a good one and what I would recommend as well - Rob

Same here; not a lot to fault really and IMO the best of the bunch out there - Rob

They are nice John but if the price was right, my arm could be severially twisted to sell the original, prototype, cast brass body, frog, lever cap, Rider No.4 with teak handle and tote. I don't need to sell it yet, but the thought had flitted across my mind - Rob

A general 'rule of thumb' as a starting point in selling second hand equipment in good condition is two thirds full retail - Rob

It's worth finding someone who's got a portable mill so if it ever does come down, you ought to be able to move fairly smartly to get it slabbed up. The first I literally heard of this one coming down was the sound of the buzz saw - Rob

I heard the buzz of a chainsaw yesterday, so being a Nosey Parker, I had a little wander over to the source of the racket to see if there were any likely chunks suitable for turning. It turned out that another.... ...Walnut tree (the whole thing!) was in the process of being reduced to...

And me; I've used one for well over ten years. My 'go to' plane on the bench - Rob

With my track record for monumental **** ups, quite a lot! :lol: :lol: - Rob

Thanks for that, perhaps another one to steer clear off :lol: - Rob

Ta, yep, I looked at that as an alternative that wasn't quite so brutal as the 5 tooth carbide tipped Ax cutter, so it's a doable possiblilty with a selection of sanding discs to follow. I'll pass on the chainsaw option thanks as I have an innate, inbuilt dread of the things and the router jig...

The current project(s) which I've just started is a variation on Oscar Pipson's bar stool which has a deeply dished seat and the underside is heavily sculpted into the legs as well. I thought that power carving would be the obvious route to take as there's a lot of material to remove and sand...

I had the same issue Steve with my Lamello C2 (you can tell it's a few years old :D ) so I put a new Ax blade in it...like having a new machine - Rob

Out I'm afeard as I'm out the country for most of Nov - Rob

You're probably right Steve and I apologise. My point that I was attempting to make (poorly) is that the skill is in the programming and once that has been achieved, tried and tested then a relatively unskilled operator could, let's say, on the (IKEA) factory floor, operate the CNC machinery to...

If you use the shooting board a lot, as I do, then a dedicated plane is really a 'no brainer'. I can't comment on the Veritas as I've never used it but I believe it's a pretty good user. I do, however, use the LN 51 (as does Custard) and it's superb; the only Spaniard in the works is that it's...

Yup, it's the old chestnut of the 'workmanship of risk' vs 'the workmanship of certainty' as Prof. David Pye was at pains to explain in his book. CNC work is in itself highly skilled, but it's a programmers skill rather than a woodworkers, so in CNC work the element of risk of a successful...