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apart from the buzzing and the vibration after using it 6 times!

yes, sad day indeed.

Thanks. No hurry, when you get a spare minute.

How wide and deep did you make them the second time?

I looked for larch around here but struggled to find it. I didn't ring around though, so there may be some. I am going to try the barrel idea. If it works, there is £50 of timber in each chair, if it doesn't they can be used for a boatload of pen blanks, smoking chunks, etc.

the beall is excellent. tool post used to be about the only place for it though before they closed. you might find one in Europe. I bought mine without the collets, then bought a full set of collets on ebay. there are certainly some that oi haven't used, but it was cheaper that way and I have...

surely that is the extra cost incurred by the parcel companies? if it isnt economical or possible to use Royal Mail, I can understand why people are unwilling- if they add on extra cost people moan, if they dont they lose money. they cant win either way. Parcels in general are a hassle (as an...

if you do go with "just" a clear wax, or a wax of any form you need to seal the wood first or you will be forever reapplying it. sanding sealer will do fine and wont change the colour of the wood.

do you happen to know the FWW edition it was in?

I like those. I have spent the weekend fencing, but I may aim to do a chair next bank hol. how long did it take you?

danish oil? I use a cloth. unless it is a very expensive finish, I dont worry too much. Things like Rubio are too expensive (in my opinion) to lose it soaking in to the cloth so I think twice for those. word of warning about oil and cloths- when you are done, spread the cloth out and put it...

Is there also an issue with shipping items containing rosewood and CITES?

I haven't done a resin project, but I have done a couple of live edge slab projects. I would remove the bark and anything loose. I assume that there is nothing too soft on your slabs. If you remove too much you may as well not have want/live edge. If you have to remove more than you want to...

Generally speaking I think you are correct, but on a lathe the setup seems rigid enough to allow it to work. I would always do the largest holes first, but the items I have made using multiple bits have the widest hole being shallowest and step down as they go deeper. Otherwise I suppose that...

What are you making? 70m plus is a large volume of wood to remove. It isn't something that I have needed to do, but the 25mm one that I have used to drill to a similar depth produces a lot of shavings. Personally I think that I would probably look at some form of hollowing/boring setup.

For boxes, I tend to use cornflake box cardboard and sticky tape rather than pencil and paper. I am not as dismissive of the spreadsheet as others though. A starting point for me is a ratio of 3*2*1 or 3*1*1. It doesn't need to be mm exact to look right, and from memory the golden ratio is 1.6:1...

it is worth checking another broker. I had a lawnmower collected by my Hermes, through (I think) parcel monkey, when the option wasnt available through parcel 2 go. also, if using my Hermes, I find that if you book directly, they want a weight band, but on P2G they ask for an exact weight...

which chuck is it? is it the RP2000? if so, I have the same issue, that I need a set because the heads on mine are worn and sooner or later I am going to round the heads. They seem to be a non-standard head size. it was suggested getting something standard and shaping them with a file, but I...

my greenhouse has something similar on it to help the sliding glass slide, stuck on with double sided tape. I had assumed it was the same banding as used on pallets. may do the job.

The only negative that I found is knowing which one to buy (first) because there is a huge range.