Search results

The veneer looks like homegrown Douglas Fir, which is lovely stuff, if a little brittle at times. I used to buy it in waney edged boards straight from the mill when I lived in Wales, It's actually one of my favourite timbers for general joinery.

Unfortunately I've finished it and given it away now, however I'll likely do another for myself and will do a WIP then. Nothing exciting just a saw vice, had to make a really solid joint between the Jaws and Legs, so how better than a MEGADOVETAIL!™.

I've finally had chance to use the axe in anger, I tidied the edge of the bit up with a flapwheel and polished it to a mirror sheen on a cloth wheel, probably left it sharper than strictly necessary... But boy am I glad I did! I started by taking the meat of the waste out of some 4" Dovetail...

Stunning work there in both design and execution stewie, workmanship to be proud of! AJB: I don't know if it does confer an advantage widely, but I know I personally prefer the closed design. I find I feel more comfortable taking a looser grip on the saw which allows me to work more accurately...

I'm honestly struggling to work out if you're being serious or deeply sarcastic... I've used CNC routers & milling Machines before and can see their worth for doing volume production runs of complex shapes, but if you're doing short runs and one off work I struggle to see the advantage in all...

I won a Stanley mitre box on ebay recently, and when it arrived the courier had bashed it about sufficiently to crack the angle adjustment mechanism in two places, one crack either side of a hole which fits round another part, and thus it's important to maintain the dimensions closely. I could...

You might be surprised to see how cheap a "proper" one is... Those are the Atkinson-Walker resharpenable TCT blades which the sawmill I used to work in used, albeit smaller and made available to the public slightly more easily by matt. Both a tad cheaper, and IMO one of the best products on the...

Depends on the saw and the amount of damage, I've done quite a few odd saws recently, a 24" 15 TPI mitre saw which needed 8 passes to get the teeth properly shaped again after jointing, and a 25TPI Dovetail saw which was just awkward. You're right that just touching up a not quite sharp but...

With Regards to ripping on the RAS, it isn't any more dangerous than any other circular saw. It does give you more opportunity to set it up incorrectly and create a dangerous condition... That's down to the operator not the machine. This Post covers the issue in great detail. The essence is...

No maybe about it, the ability to sharpen a saw is invaluable, certainly the ¾ ‒ 1½ hours it takes me to sharpen a saw is usually well worth it; I value my time, but I don't think it's worth £50 ‒ £90 an hour, which is the kind of savings I make by sharpening an old boot-sale saw rather than...

I have quite a few Tennon Saws, one of my Tyzack Saws is Rip filed with about 10 TPI, it's a nice saw giving a clean cut and quite a narrow kerf, when I got it the teeth were seriously mangled and I couldn't tell if it was originally Rip or crosscut, I already had a very similar one with a...

Backsaws are anything with a brass/steel/composite/wood back which stiffens a very thin sawplate; there are a myriad of options from huge, to tiny. Mitre Saw: 18" to 30" blade4" to 5" deep8-12 TPIcrosscut filingfor use in a mitre box/guide Carcase Saws: 18" to 14"3" to 4" deep10-12 TPIcrosscut...

I've had various bits and bobs through from them, including my massive wooden 30" jointer. Prices are reasonable for the most part, service is also very good. I also used their sister site tool-nut for some new saw files recently, and they were similarly excellent.

Well, you can't say much better than that as far as confidence in the quality of your products goes! I'm firmly in the OBM camp, certainly for deep mortices; not that I could afford a new one...

That sounds extremely familiar to me! The mill I worked in had just such a wall of racking, with profiles, reverse profiled jointstones, any knives already ground and a wallet with full diagrams, customer tolerances and helpful handwritten setup notes all carefully taped up into little packs...

Looks like I'll be wanting a coarser belt for the linisher then, and rigging up some sort of rest (I can't bring myself to use the guard as a rest for my hands to steady the tools). I also managed to succesfully re-grind a v-tool which was chipped, though not without a few worrying moments and...

As I posted a while ago, my tools suffered some severe exposure to the elements due to shed failure... Largely, wire wool, elbow grease and a quick sharpen were sufficient to sort them out, however one or two ended up badly pitted behind the cutting edge necessitating rather more material...

Right you are, though I'm happy if thats that's the only error I've made in recalling that.

Sorry, some info on buying softwoods. There are two major types of commercial softwood in the UK: Redwood aka Douglas Fir Pinus Sylvestris: Creamy white sapwood and yellow to reddy brown heartwood with an appreciable difference in density between early and latewood, commonly used for internal...

25 linear metres of ex 150×25mm timber would be about 0.1 cubic metres (25×0.15×0.025). So not enough to justify ordering a mini-pack, (unless you really like working with redwood, in which case you could probably make it up with a further 37m of PAR or sawn of the same nominal dimensions)...