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You're thinking of a very similar machine to me I daresay, the bandsaw I'm doing this for is a wee startrite so nothing quite on that scale. I've been used a particularly wide spirit level clamped to the table and two push sticks to resaw narrow boards much as you describe, and it feels like it...

I'm just about to build a resaw fence for a bandsaw, but whilst thinking about it was reminded of how the stenner resaws I used to use worked, with a fence to set the width, and a spring loaded feed wheel which kept it firmly against the fence. Would it be worthwhile making a pressure shole to...

Indeed, in the past I've needed to resaw wide boards and have always headed out to a nearby sawmill to have them done, huws grey used to knock some money off the hourly rate if I helped the sawyer and backed off the saw myself. On the other hand...Hand ripping and hand re-sawing smaller...

Just popped you a PM, I'm in the middle of sorting out my duplicates, so I may have some I can let go of cheaply if it'll get you going.

I'm pretty ambivalent about their work... Through Dad, I regularly get booklets and catalogues of the work of young designers graduating from the RCA, St. Martens and various other highly respected design schools, (No idea where he gets them). The Wales & Wales portfolio could be straight out...

Corrugated fasteners? They look awful modern, (also, just awful). My take would be to conceal the joints entirely, such that you can't see how it all fits together... Like IKEA furniture, but made well enough to last 130 years of use, not just 3 years...

I'm shopping around for a roughing gouge at the minute, as I don't have one, but have just been paid... I do re-sharpen after roughing out, or cutting pommels for exactly the reason you describe... That said, the skew really is quite a versatile Do-It-All tool, I'd be tempted to get a straight...

Thanks everyone this discussion has helped a lot! I'm now getting nice results more consistently, which is partly down to improved dexterity, but the massive improvement in quality of surface finish is clearly down to improved tool sharpness. I have noticed that the 1¼" skew I use for roughing...

Maybe a bit harsh, it still retains a distinct purple tinge, but definitely darkens (it's a nice enough colour though), ostensibly application of dry heat around the 250°C mark prior to finishing acts to prevent the colour change... But I can see that introducing a whole host of other more...

Any suggestions on where I can get wide 1" boards of purpleheart and also 2" or 3" boards (width less crucial here), local would be good but I'm willing to make a very long drive if the price or material is right! After last time I swore I'd never make anything out of solid purpleheart again...

This logic is why I've resisted the urge to use the polishing wheel, (which should theoretically give me the highest sharpness but it's no good if it's not where I need it. The take away I'm getting from this is that gentle, frequent sharpening on the linisher or wheel (probably the former for...

Looking at the MSDS the components don't suggest it would act as a penetrating treatment (and in any case you'd probably need to apply masses of it or pressure treat to achieve that effect), so I'd go for re-treating it once it's near finished size. As an aside, whilst not toxic to humans, the...

Depends a bit on your desired "look", budget and method of working. Softwood will be most economical, if you were going for put and out cheapness and have a Planer Thicknesser and powered sander then sawn whitewood carcassing would be fine. For a Hand-tool approach unsorted redwood is much...

So I've started getting somewhere with turning things, slowly. Sharpening has become a major issue through, I do all my hand tools by hand on a fine India stone, followed by slate, with a convex bevel... They're very sharp but neither the technique or the stones are appropriate for HSS turning...

Two big Hessian tool bags which fit into a big plastic "really useful box" with a layer of dessicant in the bottom. I spend a lot of my time using a community run workshop, which has no secure storage, so that's an ideal solution for me. They're god damn heavy!

One of the local branches of Howarths stocks hardwoods (I want to say Wakefield... But I forget), but it's just a speciality of that branch and the manager there so the range is limited and the rest of the group generally doesn't do them.

This is all helpful stuff, I was practicing more today to see if I can reach my initial goal of turning beaded pads for cabriole leg blanks. Turns out turning g a 4" by 24" blank is more challenging than a 2" by 8" practice piece, mainly because I let having such a big piece of wood moving...

With something like that I'd be tempted to use a clear resin to protect the original finish, as a pragmatic middle ground.

Luxury! In my day, use't light a fire under diesel tank on car, get blown t' work by force ah explosion, sew mi' arms back on wi' rusty nail and frozen hemp rope.

Very much true, if you read about the history of 'the Company of Cutlers in Hallamshire' who by act of parliament were made the legal regulators of the cutlery and toolmaking trades in Sheffield in 1624, gaining also the steelmaking trade in 1860. The company had (has?) legal jurisdiction to...