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Forgot to add I just googled the number printed on the switch itself - not the Scheppach number.

Scheppach are very expensive for spares but most things can be sourced else where, try a local electrical factors for the switch, I had similar issues with a Scheppach table saw, got a switch from germany via Fleabay for 6 euros delivered as opposed to £85 from Scheppach.

http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.p ... cseen.html A prime example just posted with loads of bits to go. :D

I started with an entry level Axminster M900 - this did me a couple of decades untill the bearing required changing and I worked it hard to. You may be looking too deep into some of the turning issues - just get on the tools and have fun leaning "The Dark Art" or wood bothering.....

Great machine had mine for over a decade - faultless.

My lathe does have reverse (VB36) but never had a need to use it, I always hollw by feel even on some large vases using the Lyle JAMIESON hollowing system, never had a problem to date.

I would look around for used deals as you often get many of the extras that will eat into your windfall, gouges, sharpening system and grinder, chucks, measurung calipers the list can be endless and expensive if buying new - being a cash buyer puts you in a strong position. Have a look on the...

I just use a general purpose blade for most cuts, a fine blade will give a better finish on "furry" MDF but shouldnt need the expense of a specific blade, even a hand saw and finish with a router along a straight edge would do it

Give them a call?

I recall my late Father making something similar in the late 60`s in the hall way of our home, it was a 3 seater and even had a mast and sail as I recall - I wonder what happened to it, be ideal here on the Broads. This is a great looking canoe and I to would be interested in a WIP description...

I have had an Axminster for over 20 years and hasnt missed a beat.

Try yorkshire grit - I have become a big fan of this, easy and great finish.

Another cause for ridges is sanding, if the wood is softer than the glue line it can sand away leaving the glue proud.

I can thoroughly recommend Lyle JAMIESON`s hollowing rog, have a look on You Tube for his videos, you can hollow internally literally using a finger to guide it, not counter pressure need from able bodied or those less able - so would be emminently suitable for your situation - I have had mine...

IF IT IS A ONE OFF JOB WRAP THE TIMBER IN AN ELECTRIC BLANKET, THEN WHEN FINISHED PUT IT ON YOU OWN BED (The blanket not the timber)

My VB36 has both variable speed control and pulley system, this ensures correct torque at every speed range, bear in mind it will handle up to 5` 9" diameter bowls it certainly needs to have some grunt at low rpm`s.

Looking at the original posting the OP certainly would benefit from visiting a local club or turner - 2nd hand offers far more value than purchasing new - often due to people giving up or sadly passing there are some great deakls to be had. Have a look here at the AWGB forum, full of advice and...

I dont think I would try lifting an engine by a single bolt, there should be dedicated liting points, also that steel looks too thin to support the weight with a bend in it - chains and lifting strops much safer IMO.

My horizontal metal bandsaw has no rubber on the wheels and works a treat, as said before the rubber would be useless in a short while.

I have had mine for a couple of years no and is great for 20 beer tokens, I got the larger disk of Fleabay for around a fiver so most pitches covered now. I tend to hand sharpen when using then at the end of the day run through the machine to ensure chains balanced and correct angle - little tip...