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Not disputing it’ll work, but a sheet of 60grit alox will cost less than a pound and be much quicker. Op should just use whatever they have to hand and not worry too much. Just check progress every now and again and don’t take off more than you need to

That’ll take a while on a diamond plate, I did mine on a bit of sandpaper on a flat surface

Take your sharp kitchen knife out to the workshop and see if it will go through some offcuts, if it will it’s sharp

A smooth steel burnishes the edge, we do it with cabinet scrapers and don’t descend into this farce. Butchers doing butchery often use a coarse steel as it’ll clean the edge of sinew that otherwise clings to the edge. If that coarse steel is harder than the knife steel it’s like a file- and we...

Worth using timber wedges in both directions to fill the eye, and leave them proud so can be snugged up if the handle shrinks at all

I’ve only taken part for the last 2 years but both times have received really thoughtful gifts, carefully made by people on the forum, and get frequent use in my workshop. It’s a great chance to try making something a bit different and challenge yourself at the same time.

Keen to join in again this year

Dowel plate would be my suggestion, and if possible pick stock without grain run out to reduce chance of splitting. Surprised turning on metal lathe didn’t work with short lengths supported at each end a sharp HSS bit.

There’s a good tools for self reliance set up in Crickhowell. They refurbish donations and either sell or ship overseas. Volunteers there seem to care about it too. Interesting to see some more South Wales members, I’m Cardiff based and wondered if anyone else was local

They changed the design of the ukpk from a solid back spring to a split “tuning fork” design. These are proving to have a much shorter service life and snap with some frequency. Sal is generally really good at getting them sorted so worth an email to see what he can do- he’ll likely put you in...

Bypass the qr and see if it holds then. That’ll help diagnose if it’s too worn. If it does hold worth trying to add a couple of washers to take up any slack with the halfnut. If either doesn’t carefully clean any burrs with delicate filing and then try again.

Benefits of a linisher are flexibility can go from a 36grit belt up to 2000grit to hog off material and then refine. A linisher will give a flat bevel, but I’ve never found the slight hollow from a bench grinder an issue in actual use, though some will tell you it’s “weak” if it doesn’t stand up...

Grinders are fairly simple things and for occasional use most should be fine. It is worth putting a decent wheel on them if using for edge tools as they’ll grind much cooler. Another thing to consider would be a small linisher

Looks largely cosmetic, may need a smooth over as scrapes can make ridges that then mark the work

For a first plane I wouldn’t go low angle, they have a narrower specialism and in my experience most of the time a typical angle is what I reach for

The Rotex 90 comes with a delta head which is really useful. I completely stripped and sanded a lot of the woodwork in our Victorian house and it came it really useful. I have the small Porter cable linear sander which is less useful than I hoped for profiles. Scrapers have been the best way to...

Thing with making one is if you don’t know what a good plane feels like it’s hard to tune it to perform well

I have a quangsheng from workshop heaven and it’s surprised me by being a nicer plane to use than my vintage Stanley’s. I originally thought it would be a bit of a beater for things I wouldn’t use my usual planes for, but I use it as a finisher now as it gives more positive adjustment and a nice...

Worth taking a look on the BABA directory https://www.babamembers.org.uk/directory/categories/domestic

Most finer tooth blades from reputable makers will be fine IMO