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Germans in colloquial speech don't call it a lump hammer or a club hammer, their term is to call it a drilling hammer - Bohrhammer Just as we say "I need a drill" and would automatically think of a powered machine (B&D or Makita/Dewalt) even though originally it would have been the egg beater...

Literal translation from the german name for the tool

@sawtooth-9 , sorry got you mixed up with a poster on another forum who is getting rid of their heavy stuff. Glad to see you are going to stick around

When considering the layout try to think of the order in which you usually work from when the material comes in the door and the first task and the kit you use for it and work around the room (usually anti-clockwise due to machine design) until you get to the other side of the door. Then work...

It must just be me, but I didn't take it that @sawtooth-9 was leaving us as such but rather based on his posts over the last couple of days, is saying goodbye to his machinery and "reverting" to hands tools due to the need to work with smaller bits of wood and tools

@Fidget Inlay mitres are a bit ropey and how on earth were you able to find such big bits of holly for the inlay banding? Yeah, I'll get my 🧥 nice tables though

More likely the cardio workout you'll get doing the planning 😅

The kit can be anywhere in the UK, I've been to maidstone and to wick to get stuff in the past.

Apologies it was a Shopsmith Mk5, links below: Shopsmith site https://www.shopsmith.com/markvsite/ BPI https://www.bpiauctions.com/auctions/#!/auctions/8704c380-bccc-4ae4-af08-58c033a9ac87/listings/5b36eb15-9211-4fa4-b041-73593dcc8c6e?ic=30&page=2 hth

@sawtooth-9 The slot for the wedge is only as wide as the saw kerf, otherwise the wedge wont push the sides of the tenon out and just slide into the gap. Yes 3 1/2 - 5 deg either side of the wedge centreline. @rogxwhit It makes a massive difference and no the wood wont split. The hole is...

Once you have made the tenon and are about to cut the slit for the wedge to go into, drill a 3mm hole at the spot you want the slit to stop. This will help prevent the chances of a split happening as you hit the tenon home and the wedge works its way in. Also the wedge should be around 7-10...

Today I made a tooth pick as I couldn't find my dental floss. Other than that just avoided the Mrs really as she tested + for the dreaded lurgy this morning. I've stapledher to the bedroom wall and left her a bucket. Will see how she is in a couple of days, until then will play with the TV...

There's a complete Kitty combo in one of the BPI or Bidspotter auctions that end in the next few days. The price so far is pretty low and it looks to be in good nick, that may do you

I got one of the below for my xmas last year and though not overly used it much it has been excellent for what I have done and it is about to do an entire new kitchen. there is a review of it over on @petermillard 's 10 minute workshop channel on the tube...

hi and welcome, sounds like a fun :cautious: project

Lacewood is fine to use as is any wood really, as long you you allow for its characteristics and movement. i have seen them in Birch, Scots pine, Willow and Ash and Oak, each of which was older than my grandad.

failte

No, we are all illegitimate and therefore not allowed. In reality yeah it's fine but reading it in my 2nd print copy is far better and smells nicer too

v nice, pity it has distemper

I would just cut a straight sided rebatedown the middle of the sleeper that is as wide as needed to fit around the post. Then once the sleeper is around the post,cut packers for fitting into the waist of the I beam and bang them in slathered in epoxy and secure with a few screws until it sets.