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Just bite the bullet and make a new stile, you're only going to have trouble with that one.

Looks like tanalised softwood to me.

Yes! just have to make up your mind Who for!!

Time for an update I think, once the top hand rail was in place I could panel over the TGV boarding on the left and finish off fitting the border up either side and then fitting the new nosings, scribing a cover panel over the old stringers fit the glass in place and finally sort out the plaster...

Sorry AndyT I had forgotten your question, I've not had the need to do this with a newel post before but the principle is quite common I believe used to flatten large lumps of wood on the bench etc.

Easy, once there is some water in the butt connect a hose to the new tap turn it on raise the other end of hose and fill with water, when you're sure it's full and no air locks put thumb over end and turn off tap, remove hose and test, it should work fine until it runs out of water that is!

Syphon the water out though the hole in the top, use a proper garden tap screwed to the side of the shed.

Thank you, the hand rail is actually made in three bits, two straights joined with a short curved bit all domino-ed together in the workshop.

Next step was to remove the banister along the landing and down the top flight, Once that was out and I removed the mid newel post the job was to reduce the size of the remaining newel, to do this I cramped two guides one each side and routed out the faces, front and back first.( picture shows...

First job in the workshop was to make up the new bottom section, this has to be dismantle-able to get it to and onto site here it is ready to be taken apart and oiled. Then first day on site, Now you see it, Now you don't, too late to change your mind now! And in with the new. I wasn't...

I do very little turning, but I have seen and I'm sure I even ground one of my own skew chisels like this as a way of avoiding the vulnerable point of the conventional shape.

I would think that a bow saw was the equivalent of a hand bandsaw.

Yes I would have liked to have done that but to the left of the stairs is a narrow space giving access to the under stairs lavatory and a protruding bullnose would cause a trip hazard. The original newels were 92 x 95mm and just looked too heavy in the confind space so have lightened them down...

So after a lot of measuring and head scratching, I decided that although I couldn't make the whole staircase wider I could at least make the first bit wider and because they were having the floor in front tiled that would raise the level I estimated by about an inch this I could share out over...

I think you would be alright to sand after setting them in, the shading is usually done by dipping the said pieces in hot sand to scorch the wood so the shading should pretty well go right through the thickness of the veneer.

OK then, due to the overwhelming wave of interest in my project I'll do a historical WIP a sort of how I did it, although I have not actually finished the job yet. I'll start tomorrow.

Take it all down, it will surely be easier to patch the ceiling than install a lintle and then replaster it all, it will all fall apart anyway when you remove the rest of the wall.

Back in January I was ashed "what can you do with this"? It's too narrow, too steep, too busy, etc. what can you do? by the way we are getting the builders in to change the hall around and put down a stone tiled floor so thought best do the stairs first. Would anyone like to find out what...

I hope these pictures explain better.

Not a very good picture for how to do it but you get an idea what it could end up like.