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It looks to me as though you have a residue of PVA glue on the pine which has caused the patchiness. You will need to strip off the varnish with a paint stripper and number 2 or 3 wire wool then give it a good sanding, starting with 150 grit and finish with 240 grit. if you want it to remain a...

+1 for Rosewood

I have bought a log cabin and two sheds from this company http://www.tigersheds.com. If you do buy a shed or log cabin you should factor in insulating it all round before you move a thing into it. Floor, ceiling and walls otherwise you will end up with rusty tools and mouldy timber.

Peelaway would be difficult to use on all those spindles. Your best bet is to use a Dichloromethane based stripper with wire wool.

I am not a fan of Briwax, but it does have its uses, it its most useful on the stripped pine look but as you have discovered it is no good on furniture that you are going to handle. Fiddles sell a product called Protex which is designed to seal in a wax finish, it might be worth your while...

Water stains do not take very well on American oak, you would be better off with a naphtha stain. I would stain it a few shades darker than you want then rub the stain back with a scotch pad, this way you can create a bit of shading in the nooks and crannies which will help with your 'antique'...

Have you stripped the piece? There may be some old finish in the grain that is preventing the stain from biting in. A few photos might help!

Turmeric is used for colour, I work with a lot of Cuban and Honduras mahogany, the yellow of the Turmeric subdues the red and brings out the gold tones. It also enhances the gold tones of Satinwood, Oak, Elm and Camphor. It is not an essential ingredient and can be left out.

Woodfarmer, you can make a good beeswax polish yourself but do not use beeswax on its own, it is horrible sticky stuff. You need to add a lot of carnauba wax, this makes for quite an expensive wax but it is also what makes it better than commercial waxes as they tend to skimp on the carnauba and...

+1 for Oxalic, or Liberons wood bleacher which is in liquid form and can be brushed directly on.

Hard to tell, but could be ash.

I'm afraid there is no way around this, you will have to take off the finish and sand through the filler that is in the grain. If the grain is very deep it might be better to scrub out the filler with a fine brass suede brush, or you could get a fine sable artists brush and paint over the filler...

I have been using Mirka Carat flex for many years, it is excellent quality and if you buy it in the rolls it is fairly economical too. You don't say what sort of finishing you are doing, but for oil, shellac, varnish or paint you should not really need to go finer than 240 grit, your finish...

+ 1

Perhaps you need a more powerful extractor!

Hi Vesuvian, The white powder is almost certainly gesso, which is made from whiting ( chalk ) and rabbit skin glue and can easily be removed with hot water and a stiff brush. The question is however, why is it there? This is normally a preparation for gilding or some other decorative finish. I...

You can get it from Amazon, £5.00 for half a kilo. I always keep a jar of it under the kitchen sink, it also is really good at taking out oil stains from clothing and on one occasion a pair of suede shoes.

Fullers Earth will remove the oil but the timber has to be horizontal as you will need to pile a 1/4" of it over the stain and leave it for several days to absorb all the oil. On one heavily oil soaked piece I worked on it took three weeks to take all of the oil out but it left a clean and dry...

This is an interesting and important discussion, it is vital to get it right as it could mean the difference between a bit of damage to losing a whole workshop. I have three extinguishers in my workshop, I have a small 1KG powder one by the bench, a 2Kg CO2 by the door and a 6Lt foam by the...

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/proops-Lip-Sp ... 3641.l6368