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Well, obviously it's not 1p, you're paying £2.81 for the book. These sellers sell a huge number of books, in the tens of thousands per year, they sell on Ebay as well. They get a big discount on postage as they send so many items, possibly half the normal price. I once bought a book from this...

Perhaps I should have said that you would do a woodwork course (or read a book) to learn how to cut and plane wood, cut joints, fit hinges etc. That would be sufficient for anyone to make a tool box of this type. Therefore there are no plans, books or courses on how to make one.

As mentioned, you would make this to fit your own choice of tools, god knows why anyone would need a book or even a course to make a tool box.

I've been wanting to make this type of tool box for a long time, started one at college but ran out of time, my tools are now kept all over the place, in cardboard boxes and basically anywhere where's a flat surface. This one I saw on Ebay seems to have "Stanley" and "Jobmaster" stickers, I...

I think we both agree the wear should not slope backwards! It was suggest earlier in the thread that a toothing plane was a standard coffin plane but with a higher pitch iron with the rest of the plane design being the same, but it seems that is not the case: do old toothing planes have a...

Two drawings take from a Charles Hayward book to make things clearer.

Hello, If we define the "wear" as the backwards slope at the bottom of the front of the throat on a bench plane, which is to stop the mouth getting too wide when the sole is flatten, then I would think the wear on a coffin plane can go straight up ie 90 degrees because the iron is at 90 degrees...

It looks to me the new plane has a mouth about twice the size of the old plane. I've never used a toothing plane before but IME a small gap like 0.25mm can make all the difference between clogging or not.

I've got the Japanese saw, a bit expensive for a Lidl product (1 handle and 2 blades for £8) but it's razor sharp and leaves end grain absolutely smooth. Haha, I've got about six Lidls within a 2 mile radius, and go past about 3 on my commute.

http://www.petermcbride.com/side_rebate/ I would be interested in making a side rebate but it has to fit inside a 1.5mm channel.

It didn't cost anything?

Yes, very small areas can be scraped, but depending on how bad the tearout is you might end up with a hollow.

A wax polish, eg car polish, will keep the shine for a long time. You don't have to apply lacquer.

Have you tried using a cabinet scraper?

Re the square ground chisel. Salaman in Dictionary of Tools, under plane making tools, mentions a chisel with the end ground off square but only by 3mm, ie the 90 degree "bevel" is 3mm high. So it seems it's an established tool, and if you're going to do this to a chisel, you don't need to...

That's ridiculous, £20 for what looks like a plastic handle with a metal collar! But that's the other common type of knife used for fine work, I believe the original brand is X-Acto: http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/knives.aspx but there other manufacturers making them. I got set...

It seems to cost quite a bit for what is really a handle. Maybe you could bulk up the scalpel handle by sticking some wooden scales on each side. Another idea I've seen is to wrap it with a sort of mouldable plastic that sets hard, Scalpel handles are not ideal if you need to press quite hard...

Does it work? If the pointed end goes into the can, how does squeezing the handles make it cut?

I've got some chisels and gouges that don't seem to get sharp. When sharpening, the burr don't seem to break off cleanly and the edge is jagged. If i use a light pressure, I can get a smooth edge but they seem less sharp than my other tools. My guess is it's too soft. I did some steel hardening...

The logo looks like 2 axes crossed over.