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What size sections are we talking?

I have had some excellent Douglas Fir, cheaper than Oak. Buy from a supplier you trust The other thing is with Oak you need about 30% waste whereas with Douglas Fir I would think 10% is plenty

If the stile extends beyond the rail I would just use one tenon as per your original idea

If a one off then a chisel, grooving plane, shoulder plane, file or sandpaper depending on what you own. If production then a grooving saw blade or grooving block for the spindle

Closer would be fine pushing the blade forward would not be so good. So if it does not cause an actual problem I would leave well alone. If it affects the blade adjust the mechanism a touch

It might also be worth asking Felder they have a second hand business and might offer a fair price given they should not its history

Well done Katie, it is great to see a bold new British product proudly made in Sheffield.

I use titebond and probably prefer more rather than less glue. It is quicker and less chance of a joint failure. Given this is quite a thick glue the hydraulic effect is a very real issue

The beading on the inside could be leavered out fairly easy with a chisel and mallet. No need for a router to go anywhere near it. However what happens next depends on what you find. So first get two temporary plywood panels to place in whilst you work on it. It may be the panel is just sat...

I can understand why no one wants to tackle it, if you think that is straight forward. Can you take a picture from the inside so I can understand your plan

Jacob's method is fine when the hole is in some out of the way location but where any blemish will be seen you can cut a little groove in the length of the tennon so that the air and glue can escape up to the point the shoulder squeezes up

I worry when I read that you have a drill press, a router, a cabinet saw, a tennon jig and then you ask about making a mortice 14mm wide indicating that you have 14mm brad and Forstner bit, 14mm router bit and could get a 14mm mortice chisel. You then ask if the tennon should be 12 or 13mm...

You need to balance the extractor to the tools. So if you have a saw bench you need something capable of large volumes. If you cut the chipboard with a hand held circular saw then a Henry might be suitable. However you also need to look at its classification some will collect medium dust from...

The options usually end up between Hammer N4400 Axminster 4300 Record BS400 To be honest the Record came tops for me and several others on here because it is good value, a powerful machine, equal depth of cut to the others above and runs on a 13 amp plug

If the job is worthwhile: As Jacob says. Be very tactful about it. Explain why you think it will not work and explain to him what the practical options are. Tell him you are happy to discuss any other option that you and he can think of. If he still insists on his way then you will just have...

Whilst a riving knife should always be fitted even when rebating, I am not convinced the lack of a riving knife is the cause of the accident. If cutting the mitre across the grain then it should have been clamped to the fence so that it cannot move forward and put pressure on the side of the...

It is very difficult to get 100% extraction on a chop saw so it should not be a surprise. There are lots of factors that make for good extraction. If you are interested have a read at Bill Penz website. One of the main things is that generally we undersize ducts for the airflow of the extractor...

The idigbo I have smells of peanuts when you machine it. It looks similar. Is it easy to work with sharp tools (idigbo) or as hard as nails (ramin).

Just use trial and error with a few bits of scrap. You will soon find out what works and what does not.

I have a SUVA so I cannot say but Scott and Sergeant have an after market one as do Axi that is £30-40 from memory whether it is better than your current model I do not know. As for the 200mm pipe, unless you can change the inlet it is not going to make a difference. LPHV systems need to have...