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The Festool Rotex and the ETS are completely different. The ETS is comparable to the Mirka in weight, size and operation. I would put the Rotex and the Bosch in a different class

I would tend to agree, but you could make some oak feather boarding. I was only talking to someone at the weekend who had Osmo'd their pine shed! But well made oak feather boarding, planed of course and then osmo it would be fit to go in the lifestyle magazine!

Are you talking just the gate or the whole canopy, gate and works as per a Churchyard?

Ok, so I gave the blade a hone up with my ultra fine ceramic stone, a bit of wax on the sole and adjusted the blade and mouth. It now works excellently very fine shavings on both edge and end grain. I tried a piece of English oak and it worked equally well. :D

Paul, thanks. I will try just a waxing. Given I have spent longer responding to comments on here, then I have using the plane I will go and set it up now!

The new Festool ETS 150 gives the Mirka a good run for its money. In fact when I bought mine the Festool was slightly cheaper :shock: I have not used it a lot but it certainly works well and dust free

I only buy tools to use and all my tools get the lived in look for real as I use them. On a steel plane I would give it a rub with fine wet and dry paper and then apply some wax to make it run faster over wood. My initial thought was brasso then wax on the same basis but not sure what to do as...

The plane itself is excellent, but I literally took it out of the box honed the blade for 5 minutes and ran it over some walnut. I would like to polish the sole and have a play with the norris style adjuster and mouth adjustment. I would also like to properly sharpen the blade. I am sure I...

Surely as a craftsman you look to optimise the performance of a tool rather than just taking it out of the box and using it. My thoughts were that the performance was good but can I get it working better.

It is the first bronze plane I have bought, I was more wondering how people treat bronze rather than suggesting it is not flat.

Mine arrived today. I have given it a quick hone but no more than that. I planed some walnut edge and end grain but need to set it up properly. A quick question should you flatten/ polish the sole as you would a steel plane?

You have identified your lack of knowledge and experience of spindles. You need to go on a training course on how to use a spindle.

Kreg do an extrusion for bandsaws with T tracks for a flip stop (made or bought) that might work.

Denis I can see your problem. I am sure you have considered this, but can you sited the machine with the bracket against the wall. Is the slider easily removable?

For all those that cannot see the advantage of riving knife or crown guard read this http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf It may be said to be aimed at professionals rather than amatures but it is really about saving digits and avoiding pieces of wood heading towards you far faster than you can...

Look at SUVA guards I think they do a ceiling mounted version

If the table saw is mobile and moved regularly how would you ensure that the saw table returns to precisely the correct position for the fixed crown guard?

I am not sure what you are trying to achieve? A hand sawn edge has limitations have you considered a shooting board to refine the joint?

I went to a job once where tulip had completely rotted away in les than 3 years I must admit whilst I knew tulip was not durable I could not believe the deterioration over three years.

I would add cut out 3' of wood beyond the end of the wet rot as a safety precaution. Never heard of any effective treatment. Ronseal do a wood hardener but it is Nye on useless