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HSE actually recommend the use of a power feed. I have never used one as I have not had a a large enough project to justify the set up.

The alternative view is that maybe the spindle is not for you. I was trained to use the machine over 3 years and even after that you were rarely let loose on your own without someone overseeing your set up (a good practice for someone to check you really did tighten the fence). Even now, 38...

If you do not need the size of a framing square the Swanson speed square is reasonably accurate.

A little bit more than £20 but the Chappell ones available from CHT or Dieter Schmid (FineTools) are accurate and easy to read.

Whitehill make a block which can accommodate a fully recessed fixing to the spindle. It is intended for tenoning on the spindle. In theory you can then rebate as far as you want. In practice you need to take small increments and the issue becomes one of stability the piece of timber. For...

Try searching for tv cabinet hinges. I have bought them in the uk before but I cannot recall the brand

Sadly it is not even that simple. The type of extractor you want on big machines is different to that needed for power tools. I suggest you start here a-guide-to-dust-extraction-by-member-siggy-7-t102025.html And then search for dust extraction questions generally on this forum. Good luck

If it is like my Bosch jigsaw the foot does not lock in the 90 degree position and then vibrates over a few degrees. The last letterbox I did I made a template out of mdf and then plunge routed it. This worked well and very accurate. It was on the bench rather than a fitted door and frame.

Bill Pentz analogy is it is like playing blow football but you can only suck the ball towards you

HVLP is not going to work with power tools. Sadly you need a shop vac for them

The reduction from 100mm to 50mm is not a half but to a quarter. That is before you factor in the ribs or the fact that the air does not speed up to compensate for the small pipe. For a 2hp system 100mm duct is likely restricting the efficiency. It is well worth looking at the main spine duct...

I think you need to get a Building Surveyor to take a look. You should be able to find someone local who can look at the actual room and give considered advice rather than us guessing at what might cause the problem. If you cannot find one contact the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors...

Last time I needed a missing Felder manual, I just asked Felder and they emailed a copy.

I bought some Kevlar gloves for wearing whilst carving. I could not find any real recommendation so just went with a brand version. So far they have acted as a deterrent so I do not know if they work. They are a type of wool knit so I am slightly concerned they will not stop a pointy blade...

There is a photo on Yorkleen's website

I put the brown paper bag over the grill near the motor and hold it with a large elastic band then the cloth filter over that. The plastic pipe goes from the hose connection to the base of the drum and the metal grid sits on top. Place a large waste bag in the drum and The large material filter...

The finger joint cutters for windows are quite specialised (expensive) as each finger is a different length and needs to match with rebates. So unless you are going into production not a cost effective solution.

I actually ended up with Impetigo which was horrible but sorted in two/three weeks once I got away from the source of the infection and some strong soap from the Doctor. The problem I had was working in it for 8 hours the sweat and dust stuck to my skin by the end of the working day the damage...

When I was an apprentice, I had a serious reaction to Iroko after a few years of using a lot of it and ended up with breathing difficulties and a serious skin condition. Since then I have refused to be anywhere near the stuff.

A tenon saw and a hand plane is best for the tasks described. Cutting pieces 50mm long on a table saw is dangerous let alone mitering the part