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Take the whole thing off the faceplate, screw on a piece of ply or MDF, turn a groove in the ply to suit your bowl rim. Locate the rim of your bowl in the groove, bring up the tailstock for support then tape the bowl to the ply before carefully turning the base away. Keep the tailstock in...

Go through grades from, say 120g, through to 400, maybe 600 for a very close grained timber. Don't let heat build up, if it feels hot to touch it's probably too hot. Sometimes you can get cracking from a release of stresses in the timber when it is cut, but I think it's more likely heat

Thanks Phil, autocorrect struck again

Can't believe no-one mentioned Old Peculiar

If you are anywhere near Salisbury then kgill has a hefty looking wolf drill stand in the for sale section, could be £15 well spent

It has a high tannin content that may taint food. Sycamore and beech are good, or hawthorn and fruitwoods

This is why chopping boards should still be wooden! I admit to taking the Keith Floyd approach to rolling pins, first take a bottle of red...

It depends a lot in the species and whether it's trunk or branch wood. Branches have tension wood on the upper surface ( springs out when cut) and compression wood underneath (curls in when cut). That's the simplified version anyway. For twist, some tree species grow with a distinct spiral that...

Grab a copy of the book Phil mentioned, he gives a really good description of tool use. If you want to square off an end imagine this: place the gouge on the rest with the flute upwards, call that 12 o clock, now roll the gouge to the right, 3 o clock, then aim the bevel at where you want to...

This is far to late for the matter in hand, but one thing that's got me into all sorts of parts is the scalpel blade holder on a cheap Aldi pyrography tool. Leaves a clean cut that can be glued back together

An excellent start, nice bit of sycamore by the look of it. Certainly better than the first piece I ever turned.

This would be a good bet, and most on here rate yandles well for service. I've had one for 12 years or so, added a couple of extra jaw sets, and it's been fine https://www.yandles.co.uk/record-power-sc4-professional-chuck-package-with-jaws-woodscrew-faceplate-insert-or-direct-thread/p17781

I've only ever had a cheapo version but on that the dovetail bit did dovetails, and straight bit did box joints. Don't see why an 8mm shank bit wouldn't work with the ½ inch bush as long as the length, diameter and angle all match. If not you'll need to get one that matches the angle and depth...

That looks just the job, cheaper than a lot on eBay and likely better quality. An M33 thread chuck with an insert should cover most of the popular modern lathes, just as long as you don't buy one from Lidl :LOL:

A piece of uPVC shiplap cladding, top trimmed to fit under the concrete? Should throw water off well enough as the lap will sit below the joint level, if that makes any sense

The second table down on this page should help. https://store.gammazinken.net/Woodturning/How-to-measure-the-thread-of-a-chuck I have a feeling this will be 3/4in x 16 tpi, in which case there are plenty of options, but I'd get a chuck that has an M33 thread and uses an insert to get down to...

Can't tell exactly how much clearance you've got to the wall on the left stile but something like these frame tie straps might save a lot of hassle by moving the fixing point further along the wall, then cover strip and filler foam as necessary...

Cutty Sark https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-axe-cutty-sark-english-make-1773084084

After 30-odd years of gardening for a living my knees tend to play up. I have found rubbing on St John's Wort oil to be beneficial, the only proviso is it's not recommended if you have high blood pressure

Iirc you can get a card reader from Screwfix for about £20, download and app (Sumup?) and they take 1.6% and pay out straight away