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I have read that some paints that emit solvents can/may ignite if the right equipment is not used. But do correct me if I am wrong...I believe some none air feed PPE filters are capable effectively blocking solvents, gasses etc provided the concentration is not too high.

I have used sovereign solvent based wood preservative for years and it dries quickly and have never had a problem when overpainting it. So far in 40+ years I have not known anything rot after treating with sovereign wood preservative. If I make sash windows I would normally make a tray so I can...

I would be not to use wood for things like hot coffee, soup etc because pottery is more hygienic and better to use. I have used chopping board oil on cutting boards etc but thats is about as far as I would go.

I don't think may people (Cabinet Makers) or firms (Mass production companies) would make bunk beds out of Ash or Oak so I am guessing it is not native Oak or Ash but I do apoligise to Keith for my personal opinion ( No offence intended or taken I hope!).

It does not look like Oak to me> Where are the medullary rays for a start? Why do you ask?

Found the information I needed: Can be crosslinked with 0.5-1% of YL-M407 for extra durability, glass adhesion and improved chemical resistance if needed.

Spraying a kitchen using Renner water based paints for the first time. I like the Renner water based but want to speed up the drying time so purchased some Renner YC...M407 but not sure about the mix ratio, has anyone used the 407 and what mix ratio if so please?

I am currently spraying water based paint for the first time and quite like it for the safety aspect related to spraying. Regarding drying time, the topcoat I am using is drying to touch dry anywhere between 45 minutes to about 1.5 hours depending upon how much heat I use from my space heating...

Ok, but when you start spraying if you don't take the time to prep the area, dust, spiders flies etc may land on your paintwork. If you do spray try to use a paint that has a relatively short drying time or use an additive to speed up the drying that way dust flies etc have less time to spoil...

Hi I am also a Carpenter/Joiner...yes I hold carpentry and Joinery City and Guilds but am more proficient at site work. I tend to use a mix of spirit based and water based paints for outdoor use. I will use a water based primer then overcoat with a spirit based topcoat. This has worked quite...

Thank you for the information, I am learnig that not all water based spray paints are the same with regards to drying times and how they react with MDF products. I initially took the advice from the sales person on the other end of the phone who was ok but could have been more helpful. After...

Yes I like the idea of water based paints (being relatively safe that is) but the slow dry time allows far too much time for particles to land and affect the sprayed area ( flies, dust, spiders etc). I have also noticed that the grain does not stay flat like when using A/C paint and water based...

Ok thank you for that, it's that the PU they are selling is supposed to be a relatively safe version and fairly fast drying so might be my next try. Not saying I don't like Renners Water Based but it dries slow and something that wears well and dries fairly quick would be better for my setup...

Thank you for the information. Yes the chemicals in acid catalyzed paint is partly why I'm trying water based spray paint. I did not use my space heating to start with but am now and I find the paint is drying quicker but still slow. So far I like the water based paint it seems easy enough to...

Hi all I am spraying some kitchen cabinet doors using Renner YL---M641/-- Base Coat and Renner YO XXM760/__XXX topcoat. This is the first time I have used water based spray coatings as I normally use Acid Catalyzed spray paint which is normally touch dry in 5-10 minutes and I am able to turn a...

This post is a year or so old, worth a read but the OP did not seem to make a final desicion. The dovetail was used if no horns were in place. The dovetail was supposed to stop the joint from being pulled apart when lifting the sash of course horns would hold the joint if used.

That depends upon how you intend constructing the wardrobe. 2"x4" is far to heavy, if you construct it properly it can all be light framework. I tend to use mostly sheet material for all of my builts ins: partitions, shelving and doors, I cam dowel fix it together. I tend to use cam dowels a...

For paint try Syphony Coatings: https://www.symphonycoatings.co.uk/#:~:text=We%20are%20the%20UK's%20premier%20supplier%20of They supply the trade. I have used them several times for paint for kitchen, bedroom cupboards and furniture. The paint they supply is used in the industry standard. I...

That's a pretty open question there! For example what is your intended look? Mirror doors? Panel doors? Sliding doors that fold back into a pocket each side? Do you intend fitting from floor to ceiling or stopping short? Are you building a box to fit or fiting into a recess? The sliding...

All of the kitchen doors I have made are from MR MDF, I use a high build primer then topcoat which is more than enough to protect the edges against moisture. If your cabinets have square edges you could consider paintable melamine edging but it's not necessary if you sand the edges before painting.