floor to ceiling wardrobe

[Daz]

Hello everyone, I'm going to be building a wardrobe in our bedroom very soon, It's going to be W2400xH2400xD600 with sliding doors, are there any do's and donts i need to think about before starting ? any recommendations on the sliding doors ? (uk)
Thanks

 

[meccarroll]

Hello everyone, I'm going to be building a wardrobe in our bedroom very soon, It's going to be W2400xH2400xD600 with sliding doors, are there any do's and donts i need to think about before starting ? any recommendations on the sliding doors ? (uk)
Thanks

That's a pretty open question there!

For example what is your intended look?
Mirror doors?
Panel doors?
Sliding doors that fold back into a pocket each side?
Do you intend fitting from floor to ceiling or stopping short?
Are you building a box to fit or fiting into a recess?

The sliding track is really going to depend upon how you want things to work, the more you pay the better the track usually. It's nice to have a soft close action on sliding doors otherwise they just bang when closed shut. Ironmongery direct might be a useful place to start.

Some pictures of the intended location along with some sketches would be a good start, also a few ideas of the look are going for.

 

[Agent_zed]

Not sure if this is a common problem so others may be able to add to it, but I have seen mould grow at the back of wardrobes as there is little air movement and can often be a cool damp place against an outside wall where water can condensate. My non-built in had the back come off slightly and touch the wall and it got damp and moulded and spoiled some of our things.

I'm not sure what production ones do but I'd be tempted to create a vented air channel around it. The vents could be subtly hidden. Perhaps even a few small computer fans to push the air around every now and then.

Just a thought.

 

[MF1000]

Particular issue if your in an older house with solid walls

 

[Daz]

Thank you,

That's a pretty open question there!

For example what is your intended look?
Mirror doors?
Panel doors?
Sliding doors that fold back into a pocket each side?
Do you intend fitting from floor to ceiling or stopping short?
Are you building a box to fit or fiting into a recess?

The sliding track is really going to depend upon how you want things to work, the more you pay the better the track usually. It's nice to have a soft close action on sliding doors otherwise they just bang when closed shut. Ironmongery direct might be a useful place to start.

Some pictures of the intended location along with some sketches would be a good start, also a few ideas of the look are going for.

Hello , so far the idea is fairly open,it will be on a flat wall with the righthand side being attached/butted upto a wall ,we would like 3 doors with one being a mirror, fixed to the ceiling and floor, i'd like to get the frame started this weekend, thanks for the heads up on the ironmongery place,looks well priced.

Not sure if this is a common problem so others may be able to add to it, but I have seen mould grow at the back of wardrobes as there is little air movement and can often be a cool damp place against an outside wall where water can condensate. My non-built in had the back come off slightly and touch the wall and it got damp and moulded and spoiled some of our things.

I'm not sure what production ones do but I'd be tempted to create a vented air channel around it. The vents could be subtly hidden. Perhaps even a few small computer fans to push the air around every now and then.

Just a thought.

i had thought about the gap to help stop damp as i built a shed with a room inside which would of drawn the damp through, i will use a backing like peg board or the like.

Particular issue if your in an older house with solid walls

they are solid walls (ex-council house)

 

[BucksDad]

I personally don't like to go right to the top of the ceiling. Potential leaks from above are then sometimes hidden and then become much worse before they get noticed

 

[MF1000]

A vent near the base and at the top of the cabinet plus if you’ve fitted a false rear panel the same in that would assist the airflow. I had an ikea chest if drawers in the corner of a a bedroom once close to a solid stone wall that got affected by damp/black mould growth

 

[Daz]

what size timber would people use for the frame ? 2x4 ?

 

[meccarroll]

what size timber would people use for the frame ? 2x4 ?

That depends upon how you intend constructing the wardrobe.

2"x4" is far to heavy, if you construct it properly it can all be light framework.

I tend to use mostly sheet material for all of my builts ins: partitions, shelving and doors, I cam dowel fix it together.

I tend to use cam dowels a lot, make a frame for the front separately. Then fix in the partitions and shelving to the walls then cam dowel a front frame to the partitions and shelving. I may use 50mm x 20mm PSE battens for fixing the partitions and shelving to the walls but you can also rip down some of your sheeting material and use that.

 

[jetsetwilly]

On the design, keep in mind the openings of the sliding doors and make sure they don't foul anything inside. For instance, if you have three doors on two tracks (common) then the max opening is a bit less than one door's width (because the doors need to overlap) - any drawers etc need to allow for this in order to open. It might be a basic point but it tripped me up first time