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A small step up in complexity involving some M&Ts would be the framed ledge and brace type of door. I guess it might be tricky working out how or where to put a bit of glass to see out of. Maybe a spyhole thing instead? Slainte.

Yes, I agree it's generally best to avoid creepy adhesives such as PVA or aliphatic resins for laminations. Having said that there are times when such creepy adhesives are okay for laminated work. Generally I use either a urea formaldehyde (UF) adhesive or an epoxy resin for laminations, and...

If you're studying at the Rycotewood Furniture Centre in Oxford you're already at the heart of a large number of small craft furniture businesses, and they should be able to point you towards several potential interviewees. If you're not at Rycotewood, it might be worth contacting them to see if...

On the whole I'd say the whisky supply is a bit on the light side but I'll let it pass, for now. But it's very nice to see the cabinet finally in use for its intended purpose. Excellent. Slainte.

A 0.3mm dip at the centre of the table of a site saw, even one costing about £800, doesn't really raise any alarm bells in me. I'd just use it within its capabilities and not worry about such a small deviation from flat in the top. Naturally, being a site saw the capabilities aren't likely to...

That's very kind of you to say that. To be honest I don't really think of it as being masterful because as far as I'm concerned it's just a round up of some common drawer forms and some thoughts and observations on the subject. It omits a lot that I suppose could be aired, but then the document...

Regarding slip forms, you might find this link useful. There's no mention of muntins in the link, but below is a better, reworked doodle of a typical muntin form, in this case, a quadrant form - it's basically the same as the last one, but a bit less smudged, and perhaps slightly prettier, ha...

Outside the fact that I provided you with a sketch of a muntin just to let you know what they can look like, I really don't think you don't need a muntin in the drawers you're planning to make. You can include one if you like just for the challenge, and for aesthetic reasons perhaps, but for a...

Sketch for a typical drawer muntin, this being of the quadrant pattern that matches quadrant style drawer slips rather than the flush pattern that matches flush slips. Slainte.

I suspect a wee brain fart. I think you probably meant to say the long grain normally goes from one side to the opposite side. A typo maybe? Slainte.

Yes. Ripping long boards on the Table Saw. It was published at the WoodCentral forum. No pay at all for my contribution there, and done simply as a favour for the author, Barb and for Ellis Walentine, who owns the forum. Slainte.

Actually, the article you refer to was published in Woodshop News in the US which was more akin to a monthly newspaper than a glossy magazine because it was printed on newsprint. It also got an airing in F&C, but it must have been twenty plus years ago. I haven't written an article for a...

At each of the suppliers I named do a search for '180 grit sanding discs'. That will bring up relevant links. As to stain or dye application, both hand application and spray application can work very well. But it depends on the stain or dye type and your skill and experience. Dye and stain...

Your image with the three pieces look good enough to apply finish, although it's a bit hard to be sure because the image is quite small. I'm surprised you can't find 180 grit sanding discs. I've just had a look at a few of the usual sources, e.g., B&Q, Screwfix and Toolstation, and they each...

I've got to admit that I'm highly unlikely to undertake extensive planing, e.g., board truing with any kind of hand plane, wooden, metal, transitional or infill. That sort of thing is just not my bag, although it's true that when I started woodworking back in the dark ages of the 1960s and 1970s...

No need to stop. What you've discussed and illustrated in the projects you've worked on is very far from the work I've done and do. All that carving and historical architectural stuff is actually a breathe of fresh air to me because it's so different to my woodworking background, but relatable...

Ha, ha. I'd actually been wondering the same thing about you. After all, you've only been contributing here for just over four months, and you're nearly up to half the post count I've managed in my near seventeen years of verbal flatulence in these hallowed surroundings. (It's a joke and no...

I didn't say I use a figure of eight motion on the paper; like you I just work the plane backwards and forwards. The figure of eight pattern I described related specifically to an at minimum desirable pattern of striations created on the plane's sole after some flattening. Slainte.

It's interesting you mention that about wooden planes. In another forum I said to you that I might dig out my old beech try plane, tickle it up and use it for the first time in perhaps twenty years. I can't remember what the subject was in the other forum. Anyway, I did dig out that old try...

I must admit I don't use Jacob's methodology with wet and dry paper for this task. My preference is to use aluminium oxide loaded abrasive rolls which you can get from almost anywhere, e.g., B&Q. They're about 100 mm wide by 5m long, and I start with 80 grit. I tear off a long strip, maybe a...