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I learnt something there as I wouldn't even have bothered trying. I'll remember that tip. =D>

I don't know about Airshield but I read an interesting article about a hospital that was experimenting on re-using their FFP2 and FFP3 masks. They said a temperature of 100 degrees C destroyed the mask, but (from memory) 70 degrees C killed the virus but preserved the mask. However, they still...

Interesting question. I offered some FFP2 masks to my local GP and found out they only had basic paper surgical masks, I don't know about full face air masks like the Trend or Airshield, but based on that sample of one GP I'd say that if you have any spare FFP1, FFP2, or FFP3 face masks then...

A few days ago there was an article on the television about GP's (and also GP practise nurses and receptionists) suffering from a serious shortage of protective equipment. I use FFP2 face masks for sanding and had an unopened box of ten 3M masks in the workshop, so I called my local GP surgery...

For producing splined boxes in batches the quickest method I've found is to use a spindle moulder. Here I'm using a single grooving blade, but I've seen this arrangements in bigger workshops with multiple grooving blades. I use a simple jig like this, And pass the boxes across the spindle...

It sounds like you're planning on building from the solid. You haven't given the full details of your plan but that would likely be a mistake. I've either made, or seen being made, any number of compound curve desks such as these, https://www.barnsley-furniture.co.uk/pr ... more-desk/...

A year or so ago Andy T alerted me to a truly excellent blog about traditional cabinet making and antique furniture, "Pegs and 'Tails". The latest instalments has a very topical spin, https://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2020 ... istancing/

Great post...an enjoyable and educational read, thanks for taking the effort to put this on line. =D>

Ed, why do you do this? You have virtually no practical experience of woodworking or finishing, yet you consistently offer truly terrible advice. Here's the correct answer. In treating water damage you need to avoid making the problem worse, so firstly try non damaging possible solutions...

This thread's worth a read, nailer-stapler-best-option-t108692.html

I've made loads of furniture from Cherry, both European and American Cherry, including demanding applications like chairs where any deficiency would be immediately apparent. I can assure anyone on this forum considering Cherry that it's perfectly up to the challenge of furniture making.

+1 I'd assumed the centre section was veneered, if it's solid then chasing a mitred lipping is really just a fool's errand. No matter what you do some movement is inevitable with the changing seasons (even though here in the UK with our maritime climate there's far less actual movement than...

If I was equipping a workshop today I'd have a top quality spiral block in a thickneser, that's pretty much a silver bullet solution. However, I'm not in that fortunate position so I use the traditional thicknesser solutions that have served woodworkers well for many decades. 1. Slowest feed...

I'm a furniture maker, I often try and bump up the revenue on a commission by including a mirror in a matching timber. I cut lots of mitres, but it's mirrors that count for the majority. You don't need to go from an unheated workshop to a domestic location to cause problems. Mitres are...

If you try filling Rippled Sycamore with epoxy the odds are that you'll be unhappy with the result. Likewise, patching figured timber is only viable if you have loads of experience and skill. The professional solution is planing down using the correct technique so that tear out is no longer a...

I've written about this at some length in previous posts. It's called "yellowstain" (try searching for it on this forum), I don't have the time to go through it all in detail but it's a growing problem, especially with Oak, and it's basically down to intense price competition amongst timber...

Hand cutting the slots for splines is possible, and with care the results can be okay. However, they'll never be better than "okay". The reason being that it's very difficult to cut the bottom surface of the slot perfectly flat and clean with a hand saw. If you use a cross cut saw it's...

If you're finding Oak difficult to plane then the solution is not to look for alternative timbers, the solution is to examine your planing technique. Sure, there's the occasional Oak board with wayward grain or that's been badly dried that can cause minor difficulties, but the vast majority of...

Incra rules with a 0.5mm mechanical pencil work beautifully on MDF, Birch Ply, or fine grained and pale timbers like Maple or Sycamore. On coarse grained timbers they're a waste of time, and switching to a B or 2B lead doesn't really improve matters.

Good for you, you got some wood, picked up some tools, and you actually made something. Is it brilliant? No, but persevere and you'll keep improving. Nail a couple of boards to the sides of your legs at the top, and you've made something that'll qualify as a saw horse. They may not be pretty...