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  1. I

    Advice sought: resurfacing an old workbench.

    I may well try the router option for flattening the existing surface; it's a good idea. @Ttrees Oh for a workshop like that! Though I probably wouldn't dare using that bench for fear of scratching it!!
  2. I

    Advice sought: resurfacing an old workbench.

    Hmmm... I have already edged the plywood with some beech I had left over. Perhaps the best thing to do would be to not glue the plywood down to the bench but just use it as a removable bench top when I need a flat surface. For making joints, I'll just have to live with what I have until I can...
  3. I

    Advice sought: resurfacing an old workbench.

    @Ttrees: I have some spare 25mm ply left from another job, so the cost is not a factor in this case. As for flatness, it's a lot flatter than my current bench top ;) @ ABJ Temple: I won't be chopping directly on the ply surface, I'll always use a sacrificial piece. I don't chop that many...
  4. I

    Advice sought: resurfacing an old workbench.

    I'm thinking of resurfacing my old wooden workbench with a sheet of 25mm plywood. The existing surface is neither flat or smooth. I can try to flatten it a bit but I doubt I'd ever get it as flat as the ply. Obviously I want to avoid bounce when I use a chisel and mallet, so the contact between...
  5. I

    Clamping Funny Angles - for spaceships!!

    Are you referring to cutting slots in to children's hands to hold biscuits? I suspect that is the kind of thing that will happen if you let kids handle a biscuit jointer; that or partial finger removal!
  6. I

    Wood ID!

    Pretty sure No.6 is wenge. No.5 could indeed be padauk, but a closer look at the grain (planed down a bit) would help. Both Ebony and African Blackwood have very pale sapwood, so it could be either but I'm leaning towards blackwood as it is often seen in turning blanks.
  7. I

    What wood?

    Looks like Laburnum to me too.
  8. I

    New Record Power Sabre 350, cast iron imperfections

    Having bought a BS350 not so long ago, I can say that I would not expect marks like that. I think someone has been too rough or careless during the construction. You can expect machining marks from where they grind the surface flat. Flat is good! You need the surface to be flat, but smooth is...
  9. I

    Post a photo of the last thing you made

    Nice piece. I have a great niece and such a cot might make a nice present for her second birthday. What joints did you use? Two year olds can be quite rough with their toys!
  10. I

    Workbench top wood selection

    I'd be afraid to actually use the workbench for fear of accidentally scratching or marking the surface if I was using pear or walnut! However, if your pockets are deep enough go for pear, but not the boards you showed pictures of as they have way too much sapwood (as pointed out by a previous...
  11. I

    Woss Dis Den?

    Fret not, the bees are quite capable of looking after themselves through the winter. Honey bees keep their hives at 34 celsius summer and winter. In the summer they may need extra water to keep cool, in the winter they just eat more honey and vibrate their wings to produce heat! Bees don't die...
  12. I

    Interesting if slightly scary looking contraption

    OMG, he doesn't even use a push stick!! Whatever happened to Health & safety at work??
  13. I

    Tung Oil

    Thanks for the link but, sadly, this link gives: "We’re glad you’re enjoying Popular Woodworking! Create a free account to read this article and others like it." Free account? Sure, provided you tell us your personal details. I don't trust sites that won't even let you read an article before...
  14. I

    Yet another Wood ID thread

    Phill05 does have a point; it does look like you might have two species in the photos. My first reaction was cherry. The one at the back has a bit shinier bark, so could be plum, but could also still be cherry. Doesn't look like apple or pear to me; the rings/grain ae not fine enough for pear...
  15. I

    Tung Oil

    From my understanding "polymerised tung oil" is in fact partially pre-polymerised tung oil (due to heat treatment). If the oil is partially polymerised (the short molecules link together chemically to make longer molecules) it would inevitably mean that it will be harder for the "oil" to...
  16. I

    Best finishing oil for pepper grinder

    Hehe; If you already know what an expert has discovered then that makes you an expert too!
  17. I

    Best finishing oil for pepper grinder

    If the "Chestnut Oil" is mineral oil, then you may be waiting a tad longer than 5 days for it to cure :sneaky: Mineral Oil is a non-curing oil. Frankly, you'd be better off with Danish Oil (or some similar proprietary oil blend), if you want the oil to cure and you're prepared to wait a few...
  18. I

    Best finishing oil for pepper grinder

    This is frankly unbelievable! What on earth are the "Advertising Standards" agencies doing? Playing Minecraft 8 hours a day? How can they call mineral oil, Chestnut oil?? Baby oil... ok ok, you can roast coat babies in baby oil, but you wouldn't roast or coat chestnuts in mineral oil! Snake oil...
  19. I

    Best finishing oil for pepper grinder

    You might also try mineral oil as used on many cutting boards. It is a non-hardening oil so, if in regular contact with water, it will need a wipe down with more mineral oil from time to time but that is a 30 sec job. Not sure if chestnut oil is a hardening oil.
  20. I

    Jewellery box

    Very impressive workmanship; the attention to detail and precision is great and you obviously put a lot of effort in to the design. I have no idea how you constructed those curves so accurately. I hope your sister enjoys it. I'm sure she will treasure it and pass it down to the next generation...
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