New Record Power Sabre 350, cast iron imperfections

[BigDean]

Morning all,

This is my first brand new cast iron machine, so I am unsure if it is just me.....

Unpacked the saw this morning, used WD40 degreaser to get all the gunge off, and there are marks on the iron. Is this normal? I was expecting perfection!

The top is smooth, so these don't think this will affect the operation.

If this is normal, then fair enough, just needed to check with the experts

Thanks
BigDean

 

[akirk]

You might be able to argue for a replacement, but I tend to be quite pragmatic - if it is still smooth I wouldn’t worry - use the saw a few times and it will no longer look that pristine anyway!

 

[fezman]

I tend to agree with @akirk . mine was bought when the saw was first released, and I've not had a minutes bother with it (well ok , just a smidge now and then). After you have used it for a while it will be worn in. The marks will become a bit meh unless they are affecting the movement of wood over the table. If you are really that bothered by the appearance, get some 1200 grit W&D or finer - and give the top a quick once over. They will probably disappear.

What i do recommend is using camelia oil on the cast iron bits. It has really prevented any rust spots on mine since i bought it.

 

[BigDean]

That’s for that chaps.

 

[isaac3d2]

Having bought a BS350 not so long ago, I can say that I would not expect marks like that. I think someone has been too rough or careless during the construction. You can expect machining marks from where they grind the surface flat.
Flat is good! You need the surface to be flat, but smooth is also highly desirable.
A smooth/polished surface will make pushing wood (especially wet wood) over the table much easier. However, the main reason for me is that a smooth surface will not rust as easily. My machine is in an unheated garage, so it gets damp, especially if a warm/humid day follows a very cold night in the autumn/winter. That means condensation and therefore rust. The rusting process is considerably slowed by a smooth surface (rusting always starts in small pits, so the smoother the better). Obviously, oil and wax help enormously too
So, if those marks are not deep, then you may just polish them out. You can start with 400 grit and work up as high as you like. I took mine to a mirror finish but the reality is that it still picks up scratches from mineral deposits in the wood.
If the marks are deep, then ask for a replacement; these machines are not cheap!

 

[Sideways]

That looks like scuffs and scrapes inflicted on the cast part during storage and handling before and possibly during assembly. It doesn't say anything good about record's quality control but you will do worse than that in the first couple of weeks of use so not worth worrying about too much in my opinion.

It doesn't do to let vendors get away with it however, so get in touch, send photos that make it clear that you haven't used the machine and caused the damage yourself and tell them it's not acceptable. You'll accept a 10% discount or a replacement machine - whichever they prefer....

 

[Sideways]

What i do recommend is using camelia oil on the cast iron bits. It has really prevented any rust spots on mine since i bought it.

I quite like camelia for protecting tools that are in very regular use. It protects for a week or so and is very easy on the hands, but if your shop is a little damp or unheated it isn't a good long term protection.
Metalguard ultra or one of the other high performance anti rust treatments first then liberon table wax with anti rust additives last far longer and buffs up to a super low friction surface.

 

[BigDean]

I spoke with the supplier who have suggested some 0000 wire wool or a 1500g mirka pad. I have ordered the wire wool. Will let you know once I get it.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Laugh if you wish, but I took most of the machining marks off mine with 40 grit on a half sheet sander. Those marks are so shallow I wouldn't bother with them but it'll take you forever with something as fine as 0000 or 1500g.

 

[fezman]

I quite like camelia for protecting tools that are in very regular use. It protects for a week or so and is very easy on the hands, but if your shop is a little damp or unheated it isn't a good long term protection.
Metalguard ultra or one of the other high performance anti rust treatments first then liberon table wax with anti rust additives last far longer and buffs up to a super low friction surface.

My workshop is a single skin brick garage. It only gets heated when I'm in it and it is very cold - so not often. It isn't damp though. Use the camelia oil on iron surfaces (BS / TP / planes etc) and dont seem to get any rust at all. I might refresh the camelia oil maybe every 6-8 weeks and it works for me, been using it for a few years now too.