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I normally get mine from Lavers and think it's normally Medite they supply. The 6mm, 9mm and 12mm are normally green and anything 15mm and up is brown with a green core. When MDF was in short supply they did send me some unbranded 18mm MRMDF which was all brown (definitely no green mark) but it...

Only posted this pic a couple of days ago but here it is again as relevant! I have a Record DX 4000 to the bottom of my saw which I think is very similar to the twin motor camvac, the saw is meant to have 125mm hose going to it but I only have 100mm and it works fine. I originally tried...

I often make cabinets with overlay doors which then have a bit of frame round or fillers to make them look like in frame doors. I sometimes use 22mm MDF for the doors and 25mm MDF for the frames/fillers to allow for the door standing forwards of the carcass.

Heart free :dunno:

Don't over think it, if it makes it easier would it matter if 2 doors were 497mm and 2 were 498mm? Blum type hinges have loads of adjustment on them and all the measurements you need are in their online brochure. It's all a bit daunting at first but just buy a pair and have a play and you will...

I generally aim for a 2mm gap but 3mm is fine, it depends on how you want things to look. Keep the gap the same between the door and the infill by keeping the door 2mm (if that's what you go for) in from the edge of the carcass and the infill tight to the carcass, so for me your 497mm doors...

As I understand it a LPHV extractor needs airflow to work so taping up the openings and a close fitting insert might choke it? I always think the same of the 50mm pipes which Tee off the 100mm pipes and connect to the crown guard, not enough airflow for a LPHV extractor which is why I went with...

I would get the type of extractor that @Spectric or @Sachakins mentions above and use it on the bottom of the saw then you could always use the Nilfisk you already have on the crown guard, that is similar to the set up I have and it works really well for me.

Link to manual https://www.targetmanufacturing.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Wadkin-BEL-Spindle-Moulder-Manual-Parts-List.pdf

That does look a great saw (y) I think AMS are just trying to trade on the back of the Wadkin name. This Wadkin and iTech also look identical but the Wadkin is £2,700 more :oops: https://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/machines/wadkin-bursgreen-bswhd-400r-heavy-duty-ripsaw/3975-923...

It is often easier starting with a brand new door rather than one which already has hinges etc fitted as chances are the hinged one won't fit the opening without some adjustment, this generally means removing the hinges etc and it can be a real faff doing things like moving handles back a few...

Going by this a SIP 01470 was a saw :dunno: https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/sip-12-belt-drive-saw-double-bevel-01470.html

Sorry, I wasn't very clear. As I understand it the jig has to be used on linings (which are just flat) before the stops and architraves are fitted. The OP refers to his casings which will already be rebated for the doors so the jig won't work with them.

The Festool Domino 700 makes short work of cutting mortises for latches and locks, great tool, really quick and accurate to use ;)

@Mark65 it says the Robin Clevett jig works on linings without the stops fitted but you say you have casings so it would only work for the hinge cut outs on your doors. For the few you have to do I would just mark around the hinge with a Stanley knife, chisel the cut line a bit deeper then...

£400 isn't the cheapest but it also isn't over the top for making a good job of hanging 4 awkward doors. I have a Trend hinge jig but it only comes out if they are brand new doors and casings and then there needs to be at least five or six of them to warrant it.

Always find it really interesting how other people do things. I got some unsorted red in today for some barn doors, I need 4x2s for the stiles so I ordered 9x2 and will cut a 4x2 off each side leaving the pith from the middle as waste. Also on todays delivery was some Sapele and some Accoya...

Whatever wood you go for look for some with a nice straight grain because there is (hopefully) more chance of it staying straight. Sapele can move around a bit. Some pieces have interlocking grain which can be a nightmare to plane up (I don't have one of those fancy spiral block planers). Some...

There isn't much wood in a pattern 10 door so I wouldn't have thought the price difference between softwood and hardwood would make that much difference to the final price once you have factored in labour, ironmongery, glazing etc. The location does make a big difference, there are a pair of...

Looks like Iroko, bit expensive to be used as bearers though.