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Every days a school day!

Honestly, I’m not sure. The trail of thought so far is that I want the whole apron of the bench to be a holding tool. So the left hand side will have a leg vice, and then if additional support is needed I can use a track clamp from the right, which is why I thought having the surface flush would...

I’m planning a new workbench. I have a double garage, but it fits two (cars nose to tail, rather than side by side) so effectively it has all of the constraints of a single car garage only with more of that constrained space. What this means is that I need everything in there to be as...

I think he means that it comes in from the side supported by what looks like scaffolding pipe. Like this one: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-trade-shark-s-12-overhead-blade-guard-104504?queryID=57228b5d5196d0df4c24a607852684bd

Can’t help but think that “the American way” is spawned by the prevalence of SawStop saws. Practically every YouTube woodworker has one, so I guess the “I know what I’m doing” hubris takes over when the stakes of being wrong are only receiving a minor cut rather than losing a finger. I must...

It’s a 6 amp lighting circuit so 1mm should be fine but if I wanted to be certain then 1.5mm should be more that enough. Unless I’ve misunderstood then I only need to make sure the cable is capable of taking a higher load than the breaker? I would be installing the relay to act as the switch...

Agreed. I was hoping someone would make me aware of a magic wand solution that would be less messy. I’m just a bit confused why people think that adding the relay into the backbox at of the wall switch would be dangerous? I’ll be using the correct gauge of wire, all terminated so that no copper...

The phone was just an example. It will all be ran through a central smart home hub. The presence sensor will only turn the light on when the luminance of the room is beneath a certain value, and it would also trigger the blinds to close when the light is turned on. I want the functionality of...

The only devices that don’t require touching the circuit are smart bulbs, but the problem with those is that when the switch is off they don’t work. They usually require a permanent live feed and so then the relay would tell a hub to tell the bulbs not to illuminate any more, but they would...

The only work I’ve done so far is replacing existing light fittings and removing existing plugs sockets that were spurs. I haven’t added anything to any circuits. I accept this was a silly suggestion, as I said, I posed it more to start the conversation in the hope that someone could offer a...

Any work I’ve done on the house so far has been tested and signed off by a qualified electrician. I came here looking for guidance and information to make sure I didn’t do something unsafe. Why not educate me on why the proposal isn’t safe, and what I should be doing that you think I’m not...

I’ve already converted the existing thermostat to a nest one myself. I’ve set up most of the other equipment myself and its is all tested for continuity and safe to my knowledge. If I’m honest, as the thread tile suggested, I knew this wasn’t really a good or safe solution, I used it as a...

Yeah with the other lights I’ve fitted a Shelly 1pm mini in the ceiling roses, but with this particular circuit that junction must be somewhere hidden in the ceiling, this one only illuminates the under cabinet and plinth lights. I only have a switched live coming out of the wall and into a...

Come on now, surely I haven’t come across as that much of a novice? You’ll be telling me that I shouldn’t lick the live wire next 😂 Fair play though I was expecting to be told the appliance circuit would be to high current, but I was hoping someone would tell me of an easy way to step it down...

Absolutely correct, I’m not, and that’s why I’m asking for advice before I potentially do something dangerous. What would you suggest given the situation I’ve described? I’m assuming the ring main for the lighting circuit is in a junction box somewhere in the ceiling so I have no way of...

I’m in the process of making my home “smart”, I want the side lights in the kitchen to come on when a presence sensor detects someone in the room. I want the light switch on the wall to work like normal, but I also want the option to control the lights with my voice/phone irrelevant of what...

You know what? You’ve got me doubting myself now about whether the flimsy plastic ones are actually crown guards or not. As I understand, a crown guard sits over the top of a blade, like a crown in a head. This would be an example of an aftermarket version:

It’s the plastic thing that covers the blade and stops your fingers coming into contact with it. Saws normally come with one which attaches to the riving knife, but they can look a bit flimsy and difficult to use. You can buy much more robust aftermarket ones that can also help with dust...

Agreed. I’ve also not tried it, but I would have thought that widening the bore of the pipe would make it low volume low pressure which isn’t much use at all. Additionally adding a cyclone will significantly weaken the suction. I would have thought something like this would be a better option...

Do you have an Axminster nearby that you could go to? They sell them so will likely have one on display https://www.axminstertools.com/makita-ls1019l-260mm-compound-mitre-saw-with-laser-230v-104559