Search results

I can imagine a mitre trimmer having capacity and leaving a polished cut but every one I've used has not been super accurate. I had a monster American one got the knives ground and it was awesome but it was never perfectly accurate and the blades soon went off sharp. If you could set it up...

That looks like a bigger plane than a 4. A no6/7/8 maybe. Anyway that's the plane to use for many reasons. But what happens at the cutter is dependant on setting up and sharpness. Remember once it's set up your good forever. And polish of the sole is largely cosmetic. It needs to be flat at the...

You'll find getting a nice finish is a money pit. Everything plays a part abrasive/machine/extraction/ filler/ finish. Much is derived from the car finish industry. Mostly I try fir an OK (acceptable)finish as fast as possible. Every panel item cornered prior to my festool delta was sanded using...

Pbs 75 but the old one(like the gbs 75)

I use the mirka sander. The one with the big transformer. Styled like an air sander. Can't fault it tbh. It's light and nimble. Leaves a great finish. On site I've got an old bosch 3 inch sander that's made in scintilla Switzerland very like the festool. Its an excellent buy.

Yes I wouldn't suggest it as a first buy sander. Do festool do any other mains/battery items? Seems a good idea.

Seems to be a really useful item. One of those thing that's can improve your finish very quickly by getting in those neglected corners!

Japanese oak was quite popular from1900 on. It's a much finer wood than most oaks.

I think as close to final use atmosphere is best. As much surface exposed as possible over 2 sides. If I was making smaller bits I would just store it upright if I needed the whole to stay flat I'd try and store it flat. Good sensible prices there. Is Sugi available in hokkaido? It's the only...

Welding is what I term one of the "rough" arts. I work next to a good welder. I can weld OK using the gun/gas he's set up. But it's far from the trials of woodworking. Cut it a bit short? Just fill it with weld. Cut one a foot to short? Weld a bit on.etc. Once you can add to stuff mistakes are...

I also think the green resin w is/was amongst the strongest glues on pine.

I use 2 glubots (thin noxzzle thick nozzle)which suits it well. I spread with a stiffish brush. I much prefer it's low viscosity(once you've adjusted) it allows very quick work and easy wetting. Also easy clamping when sticking 2 flat bits together.

Another one is struggling(worktops and panels )

Titebond 3 is all I use and like anything you get used to it. I like it's thin and easy to apply and quite slow to set. Other whites glues whilst cheaper are very thick and tend to set far to quickly. Anything needing mixing is a pain in general use.

It's not that it's a bad idea it's just not how it was done. If it was proof against it ever rotting I would consider it but after 100+ years these windows can basically turn so dry and twisted water can penetrate In a multitude of spots. Making them with a housing is my favourite bit oddly...

I'm with Jacob on this one. But to each there own. I just prefer a solid square frame. People also leave a gap on the front linings to stop rot. But maintenance and tightly made joints are best. The biggest issue imho is the incompatibility of plastic/ caulk sealers especially sealing the bottom...

This also shows the pulleys and the weight pocket(later internal style)

Sorry the last pic is something else altogether.

Here's a few snaps of a frame me and 1275gt put together. It uses more traditional joints and nailed on front/back which is very common.

It's mostly using better putty and a polished stiff blade. What I don't recommend is puttying anywhere but on the bench! I'm always fascinated by how long certainly bits of putty have survived I took a stained glass window from an early victorian door on Friday. It was all original(the...