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Airless should work fine. It can be hard to control as to lose the horns you need a fair bit of pressure. Which results in lots of paint transfer!

Interestingly you've discounted linseed paint which is the darling of the sash window brigade. Unfortunately no use in the coming months. I feel if your definitely going to spray water based you need an air assisted airless set up. Anything else won't cut it as the temperature drops the...

The strength of precise box joints is amazing. Almost no glue required on birch ply. It also gets the grey ticking as to potential uses(beyond boxes) I keep thinking about frames with jointed corners for some reason.(only 30mm to play)

No it's a dado/router jig and doesn't allow any method beyond a simple single width pass through.(I think!) But with the correct equipment it's super accurate and easy. It can be used with the hinge crafter to make hinges(at least the notch part) It does have a depth restriction as well of about...

I would also stress that these paints are a system intended for new work. You would be unwise to discount traditional methods on old work ie face glazing the windows, dealing with knots ,cutting in, building end grain, curing all of which are addressed in different ways in a water based system...

Yes hydrolux is the acrylic top coat. The other is a superb paint but it's a water based pu lacquer really a solvent based lacquer but somehow in water. The filler primer is great if you can spray it. Hydrolux top coat is about as thin as these things get.(they add thickeners for brush...

Shellac is a unique material. That slow dissolve gives it potential to be polished by a rubber. Cellulose lacquer is rapidly dissolved by thinners meaning it cant easily be contact applied coat on coat(the second coat ruins the first). A slow thinner called pullover solution was used to achieve...

1/2 lb cut is 61g/litre

Thought I'd give this an unbiased review. I brought it brand new secondhand with no box. It's a jig with a single purpose... finger joints or box joints. It's modus operandi is derived from a myriad of home made jigs using a sliding carriage and a guide finger, so the next tooth is indexed from...

The barn paint is just a single component system no primer undercoat Nada. Barn paint has more thickener added than msp. But with a pump system it doesn't matter how thick really.

I've sprayed msp but I found it a bit soft. I got a great gloss black finish but it's very easy to damage. I used a high build undercoat and coverstain primer. Otherwise the grain becomes really prominent. I've sprayed barn paint extensively and that is a good paint. Where you'll struggle is...

Sometimes the fake oak ones are much better to cut oak can be very hard and chippy. Some is like idigbo. That looks like elm but the grain us all over the place.

Fine I say

Mine won't do that they will have plugs being bb/bb

I'd use milk paint on the stool. Cedar I'd just leave.

I've got a supplier for bb/bb at £70 sheet in 12mm bit less in 9mm. Beautiful board though

Addis had a few branches making carving tools. Ward and Payne also made some of these in sheffield(the others were in London the spiritual home of much victorian carving) These were amongst the very best carving tools that were made gaining many gold exhibition medals. Marples were a huge tool...

I have repaired a few and the finish used to be ronseal varnish on tops and simple wax everywhere else(according to the company.) I reckon there's a good reason they don't make this style anymore....

I think alkyd resin has that durability limit(or less) but ally primer blocks discolouration and resin stain. Which on the front doors I've used it on seems to hold true. Redwood can be dripping with resin. I'm assuming it works on hardwoods as well. Dud you find any help re bleeding and stains?

Especially on wood with extractives like say mahogany/ teak