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I'll check those out.

just a post to highlight how good these seemingly rustic tools are. I have a job making drying racks from 20mm dowel and straight uprights. simple right drill 20mm holes insert dowel simple. of course each dowel is about 20mm and not necessarily round even. also I could do with a shoulder and...

dug this out it's sharpened with bevels on both sides as i use it for lettering.

I brought this many years ago and I always thought it was an elegant looking thing. had a selection of blades available. the only other one I've ever seen is at Kelham Island in the product development bit I think.

I can see its useful for specific issues related to how he completes his work. he's actually really thorough in his approach but it's not the only way to make built in wardrobes. his way of doing this is a little bland as he's trying to be big league so to speak. one confidant bloke with a...

my 2 pence is always buy a big set as everything's much cheaper I brought makita 6 bag in 2008 and every tool still works. these days I like the smaller 12v stuff it's light and delicate. much better for joinery( the bosch blue but the quality is not the best)

I would do those mouldings with a router tbh. the follow any movement in the ply better( and the ply seems a decent size.

the finished article.

I see it the long bits of the triangle stick out and the short bits are flush. have the ply sheets remained flat? they normally dont!

very nice! as always some feature either on the edge of the timber the edge of the door can help to disguise. don't know how these runners work tbh. soft close? like blum?? check and double check alignment and finish position.

same as triggers broom.(or to be more bojo "the ship of theseus)

what if someone had cleaned all 18th century planes replaced the irons with o1 replacement prised out the boxing and put tufnol in and put a better blade clamp in. would that then hold any information for our future selves to discover?

deterioration of heritage joinery is and should be looked on as completely normal.

it's not a criticism of its use it's just me thinking out loud on what heritage is for. substituting one material for a highly modified acidic timber isn't the same neither is using sapele from the Congo. it's the equivalent of using composite slates on an important historic roof. worse it may...

I think the remaining tiny amounts of real heritage joinery are very precious and a double glazed hardwood accoya substitute isn't at all the same.

I'm unsure as to the ethics of using accoya in heritage joinery. it's seems important( to me) to strictly adhere to the original material. as far as is possible. if accoya is acceptable why not plastic? hypothetically some deterioration and paint build is authentic and maybe even desirable? just...

those moulding are beautiful and crisp what timber is it?

I think steve355 is very nearly at the point where its definitely best to make the sash. it adds a little stress to not make a ****oo and allows you to run through the whole process learned upto now. I would suggest make spares for every bit( basically 3 bits) and make and mark as you go...

for instance leaving the thin border around the oak leaf carving has made it a technically difficult exercise to not break off the short end grain(really not easy) top and bottom. thus has meant she was restricted in how deep relief she could achieve.

remember carving in wood is considerably trickier than most other stuff as its not consistent in structure. stone is harder of course but is basically the same consistency throughout.