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i If I understand your argument right, it's like saying that if one of your legs is broken, you should break the other one to make it easier to walk!

It's a showcase joint- seen most often in the top corners of glazed cases. If you have a copy of Joyce on Furniture Making, it's on p226.

As noted above, there's no right answer. However, flush trim cutters make template design and making an awful lot easier, especially if your template has internal and external elements.

What makes turning different from nearly all other kinds of woodwork is that you don't have to plan (of course you can if you want to, and if you're doing something complicated you will probably need to) So woodturning can be a bit like improvised music. I like it for that reason- it's the one...

Hi Andy, I've recently done this in my house, reusing the old stair side panel and cupboard door as the fronts. Weight is a big deal with things like this, as I found out to my cost! I had to replace the runners for the three tallest pull-outs. I ended up using these 34" EXTRA HEAVY DUTY FULL...

Beautiful!

Wow! You must use your spokeshaves differently to how I do! (That's not intended as a criticism) I would guess that I use the flat one about 90% of the time, including for shallow concave curves. It may be my poor technique, but I find the round one chatters easily. And on choice of maker, I...

They were made that way because of the rationing of materials during and after the second world war. There was a table of materials for every piece of furniture and they were inspected to see that the makers hadn't used too much. This recreated artificially the mediaeval order where materials...

If you work on site, doing a lot of scribing, a good jigsaw is a fine thing. I thought of getting a Mafell but eventually chose a Festool Carvex as it has a light and is light. No complaints.

And by the way, that's a posh room you are fitting the shelves in. They must have paid well for what's there already.

My accountant once said to me, "If you double your prices and lose half your jobs, what happens? You're getting the same money for half the work!" While this is very simplistic, it's worth bearing in mind when you get that cringe on seeing the bottom line of a quote you've just finished adding...

I would do it with a scratch stock - you can make one from two small offcuts plus a bit of good steel ( I use broken pieces of a very large hacksaw blade, but any bit of good steel 1mm thick or so will do ) which you can grind to whatever shape you want. If you grind it square it will work in...

Standard F-Clamps | Urko F Clamps | Clamps | Tilgear These are great. I've had some for years and they are as good as the day I got them. They have a clever little insert which stops them slipping.

There's the Zyliss vice like this one Vintage Zyliss Vice with Zyliss Bench Clamp - Swiss Made | eBay Probably lighter than a metalwork vice and larger capacity

If you are trying to work out the radius of the circle of which your gouge is an arc, my usual way is to use what's to hand- paint cans, plates, etc- put your gouge to it, see if it fits. I would guess that once you have got a few of those, a pattern might emerge?

BTW, I have several of those going cheap- interested?

If everything you use on your extractor is going to be with a Festool power cable, they might be worth it. I have a mixture and my clips similar to those have sat in a box for the last 10 years! It's just more bother than they are worth to be always re-clipping them.

I'm with Brian on that one. If you can get hold of an old car or motorbike inner tube, 20-25mm strips cut from it are very useful for cramping awkward joins like that- wrapped round several times while pulling tight.

I don't agree that you shouldn't screw into the ipe. My principle is if you have the choice, screw through thinner/softer into thicker/harder. Ipe is definitely hard! AKA ironwood and well named. Joining the slats to the frame using dominoes sounds like a lot of hassle for no benefit. the main...

I agree with TheUnicorn- it's most likely that your timber isn't dry enough when you get it. If you can afford to, it would be a good idea to get a moisture meter and check a new bit of timber against one that's been in your workshop for a while.