Search results

If you fit butt hinges properly, which is definitely recessed into both door and frame, a lot of the strength of the join comes from the fit, and the screws act more like retaining pins. If you've ever removed an old, well-fitted door you will know what I mean- it often needs a bit of force to...

Transatlantic's way is what I use. To explain it, the two guides are at exactly 90 degrees, and are as near to 45 degrees to the fence of the saw as you can get them. If you always cut the frame sections the same way up, each joint will have one piece cut against the left guide, and one against...

I worked as an antique restorer for many years and my standard cleaning mixture was white spirit:meths:linseed oil, equal amounts, shaken well and often as it separates almost instantly. Of the three, the oil doesn't evaporate, so if you don't want it on the finished article, don't use it. This...

Thanks, that sounds right. It's actually a loudspeaker cabinet! Pete

Hi Simon, to answer your questions- it is mm. Most of the dimensions are approximate- the only one that has to be spot on is the diameter of the lip and its rebate. The step on the hole can be left out. The main problem I have with working out how to do this is that while I have turned many...

Hi all, I have to make a turned shape as shown in the attached drawing. It's just the top shape. I'm trying to work out the best order to turn the elements- inside, outside, foot? I have a Graduate lathe with a Patriot chuck and a good selection of gouges scrapers etc The finish of the interior...

If it's really an antique, using a finish like that is not a great idea. What are you going to do when it needs refinishing, which it will someday, however hard the finish? I worked for many years as an antique restorer, and one of the things that caused me the most problems (and my clients the...

The bigger the bit of wood is, the bigger the cracks. If you put a bit of air dry 6x6 straight into a central heated room, it's bound to split all over, especially as 6x6 usually has the heart wood running right through it and so the stresses have nowhere to go. This is why your pen blanks...

I have a Minimax T45 which I bought for the same reasons. It's not great at resawing especially that thick. If you have a good blade and are happy to take it slow (I'm a bit impatient!) It will probably be OK. For other bandsaw type uses, it's absolutely fine.

Hi Stephen, I live and work in Cambridge too- I don't know any local machine setter-ups. Ones I've used in the past have often not been worth the fees. You're welcome to come for a chat if you like. Pete

Thanks Marineboy! Phil- they are to attach something like the top of a bookcase to a carcass where the grains run in different directions. The slot allows the one to move relative to the other (expansion/contraction) while holding it down.

I'm looking for some of these plates. Any ideas? If you know what they're called, that would also be a help. Thanks for looking. Pete

I have an AGS/P. The fence is very solid and as long as you keep it clean and give it the odd squirt of WD40, it's as smooth as you could wish.

What I do for things like this is to cut a square piece of scrap, whose faces are as long as the diameter of the rod. Stick it on the end of the rod using superglue. Use the square as your reference against fences etc. When the work is done, cut it off.

You definitely can. The fences of the spindle will have the same function as the tables of the surfacer. That's the possible drawback, as they are usually shorter, and may not be parallel. I make lots of worktops using a glue joint cutter, and if the boards are straight, I just put them though...

If boards become wedge-shaped as a result of the planing process, it's because your outfeed table is set too high. (or if your outfeed table is fixed, your knives are set too low). Try planing a bit of flat square timber, slowly passing the front of it over the knives until it reaches the edge...

[/url][/img] I did this a few years ago for a science centre in Cambridge- it was for schoolchildren. I sanded the edges well, and did a generous rad. and finished with acrylic varnish. It looked pretty good, and I never had any complaints about splinters!

Hi All, I am participating in Cambridge Open Studios, and will be opening my workshop from 11am-6pm on the 14-15 and 21-22nd July. It's at 38 Cheddars Lane, Cambridge, CB5 8LD. Free entry. If you already have a guide, I'm at 41a. https://www.camopenstudios.co.uk/attach ... 2018-guide

It's a barrel, and barrels work, even big ones, so this will too. Part of the solution is that the ends are made like a ledge and brace door, so that they won't expand width-wise. Then the only expansion and contraction you have to deal with is in the thickness of the staves.