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Hi Richard, good to talk to you this morning. Best wishes, Pete

Hi everyone, if you live near Cambridge and are at a loose end this weekend you might like to come to my Open Studio. It's Friday to Sunday. See attached poster for deets.

Hi Glen, did you buy it in the Uk?

Dominoes, glued to the frames. A countersunk screw hole in the carcass. It works very well and is removable.

for what it’s worth, I have several scrapers made from old files. I have used them for years with no problems. I have not been particularly careful with them. However, I always wear eye protection whenever I use the lathe, whichever too, I’m using

I used to get a lot of it resawn from old mill timbers. It was lovely to work with, very stable as you say, and if I remember right it had a nice smell.

I can picture something like the way the turrets on a plunge router work, with a ball bearing, a spring, and a circular groove with two or three holes. It would need some precision though...

AC Timber, 54 Lancaster Way business park, Witchford Ely, Cambs CB6 3NW

I’ve had a few people in your position come to work with me on whatever I’m doing at the time, for no money in either direction. I get a hand and they get shown how to do whatever the task at hand is, plus the repetitive task of actually doing it. I generally try to gently dissuade them from...

Hi Sam, you use your dovetail cutter first. Set up the Woodrat with the parallel bars etc. cut all your tails, and before you change the cutter for the straight one, you put a scrap piece of your stock in the clamp. raise the cutter until it just skims the top of the piece, and pass it over the...

I,ve had one for about 25 years. If yours is a similar age, my best tip is to ignore the scales on the snails- they weren't put on accurately. I struggled for years, always getting staggered joints or having to compensate for them. Eventually I rang Woodrat and was informed about the lack of...

I do quite a bit. Mainly candlesticks and the odd bowl, plus things for my main job of furniture maker, and the occasional bit for a scientific instrument.

The Patriot chuck has a clever twin-thread body which allows it to be used on both sides of a Graduate without changing anything- I see that the versachuck has other advantages so I guess it depends what you want.

I guess it's just what you are used to. I started with a normal (not dial) vernier, and found it was a bit of a pain to use, and led to several mistakes, so skipped direct to digital without trying a dial one. My instinct is that the fewest steps you have to take to get a measurement, the less...

So you have to find a screwdriver? Might as well get the calculator...

The digital ones have a function which the dial ones don't which is the ability to set to zero. I use this a lot to tell the difference between thicknesses without having to get the calculator out. Take the thickness of the first piece- zero- measure the second- the reading is the difference...

It depends on how bent/twisted it is. I have bought hundreds of sheets of birch ply from many different suppliers, and they are rarely flat, never dead flat. I just plan accordingly, and choose which bits of which boards I use. I.E. if it's the side of a cabinet with fixed shelves, it's OK to...

If you are using them where they are going to be pulled- like a drawer knob- I would avoid the knock-in ones. I have had a few fail after a year or two.

One cheat which I use sometimes for large circular mirror frames made from segments, is to get them as good as I can without boiling my brain, then gluing up 2 180 deg sections, then all I have to do is get the 4 unglued ends in 2 straight lines.

If you're using MR MDF, I would urge you to have good extraction or at least to wear a good mask and clean up asap after working it. I don't know what they put in it, but whatever it is, it's there to kill stuff!