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The debate about anthropogenic climate change is relevant because if we did it there's a chance we can undo it. Certainly current climate variations are small compared to geological past but then humans could not survive in many of those conditions.

If there's not enough material to stabilise for multiple passes it might also be a problem when you get to the end of the cut. You can use double sided tape to stick a strip of timber slightly smaller than the rebate to the table after the cutter.

Standard reds will be available in the size needed and easy to turn. If you can send it back to the merchant and have them put it in their preservative tank it will last as well.

That's a good description from Baldkev. I've only got a diagram to add. Use 5mm screws, probably 100mm and brown plugs. Also if wall is out use separate rather than folding wedges,or shim folding wedges. Expect to spend an hour or so on getting a lining in right.

A shelf of only 6" width won't cup much unless it's right from the edge of the log so a simple plank will work fine. 1" is ok to span 3' with normal loads ,if it's supported on brackets you can overhang quite a bit either end. To stiffen a plank you can add batten glued and screwed along the...

You can still get decent teak ,there's a demand from boatbuilers so merchants that supply them can get it,try Robbins timber in Bristol if you can't find locally. It's definitely expensive. Plantation teak is used a lot in cheaper garden furniture and it's often not good with lots of sapwood...

You can foam behind the linings but if you wedge and fix at 5 points per side there should not be much movement. If fire safety is an issue use rockwool pack or fire rated foam. The door should fit to the frame with about 3 to 5 mm each side and top, so you will need to have a gap between the...

Your width would seem to be just right . To fix the lining use tapered wedges cut from 2" stock about 2" longer than the width of the lining. Use them to center the lining in the blockwork and screw fix to blockwork making sure they are plumb and parallel. You will need to pack the head somehow...

Prices have certainly gone up, I paid £36 for an 18mm sheet at a merchants in July and went back for another last week but it was £90. I got a 24 mm one instead for £70. Huws Gray is a merchant near me that have been buying up merchants all over the country and I think they have a Cambridge...

I've had some nice ones from Ironmongery Direct .I find their quality is usually a bit above Screwfix stuff.

I use iron on maple with birch as it is a good match color wise and apply it after assembly .I often think with better planning I could do it before. You'll need a very sharp knife to trim it, I find a razor blade is best.

I've got one like the bottom section of the red one. I think I got it from screwfix . I got rubber non slip mat from a chandlers to line the drawers and protect my chisel edges. It's a bit unstable with an open loaded drawer but I haven't tipped it over yet.

If you bring the timber into your house it will dry quite quickly a month for 1" softwood should be enough. Door length pieces will fit under the bed .

To use a different finish you'll need to remove the existing. Osmo finishes are very good and easy to use. I used Osmo top wax on a customers worktops recently and was impressed it looks like it will wear better than the oil I have used before which is still good stuff.

As others have said the festool rotex is a very good sander, I don't use my 4" belt sander or random orbit anymore as it's better and faster. A friend has a Mirka sander and recons it is faster than the festool.

The hang boards I have seen use multiple layers of ply usually with screwed on sold bits as well. The holds are often sloping which would mean using an angled sled under the router adding an extra complication. With care and going slowly it is probably possible to do it in solid wood but I think...

You should be able to get decent interior ply or birch plywood at any builders merchant. Birch will need less sanding to get a good surface to paint and tends to splinter less when sawn. A few months ago I paid £36 for an 18 mm sheet but apparently prices have gone up. MDF can be tricky to paint...

Spend money on insulation first, then look at ventilation, we have a mvhr system that gives good draught free ventilation and removes moisture to give a comfortable house. When draughts are reduced and air is dryer the comfort temperature is lower. I don't know much about heating systems we...

Another thought on back panels for built-in, if wall has any damp they will become mouldy behind unless ventilated

I would fit a piece of back panel say 200 mm deep at the top to stiffen it up and screw through to wall sides can be blocked off wall and screwed. When shelf units like this are used the contents become more noticable than the joinery so going to fancy is usually wasted.