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Last month I paid £5.30 + vat for150 x47 mm treated c24 eased edge , that's the dimensioned timber that is almost PAR , seems like twice what it was last year certainly a lot more.

Pallet wood is cheap but often has staples in even broken off legs that you can't see . Planer blades are quite expensive and chipping a set on a nail or staple can really spoil your day and wipe out any savings on timber. But overall a planer thicknesses is a great tool, I don't think you need...

The extra cost is probably all in the batteries. 4 Ah often gives me a full day of site work in a drill / driver so I would have the bigger battery. You might need a 4Ah if you buy some more power hungry tools in the future which you can get bare for a good price. Not really helping the...

I'd add a bit of insulation while you're up there. It looks like you've got about 3" of loose fill in between the rafters and an inch or two on the felt. Rolling out 8" of rockwool will make a lot of difference and if you're lucky someone else will pay for it.

If you use a template that is thinner than the filler strip it may not match with rough stone.

The screw is not designed to through the end of the plug, though I don't see any harm in it. I would tend to knock the plug in past the plaster or board and void if it is dot and dab so it's in solid masonry. Try not to drill the holes too deep , if you drill right through one leaf you can blow...

Board spreads the load onto the joists to prevent point loading on the tank. Chip board will be cheaper than ply and the diy sheds sell it in small boards that are easy to get through the loft hatch. For a 400mm span 18 mm is ok

Wood identification & use by Terry Porter is a good reference .

Can't really tell from the photos but the bubinga I have got is distinctly red even to a colour blind man

If you staple a multifoil insulation to the studs and joists, tape the joints and line with OSB that will give better insulation than thin foil board or polystyrene, don't pull it tight so it can expand into the void. I don't know what the price comparison would be at the moment. Regarding the...

Moulding laminated timber is ok, if the glue can't hold it together during machining it's not good enough to hold it at all. For exterior joinery a PU glue or resorcinol will work forever, PVA even the waterproof stuff is more questionable, they don't use it for boat building

There's two issues really, fixing the brackets to the wall and fixing the sink to the brackets. The bracket fixing will depend on the wall and what your happy with, I like concrete screws as they're easy and don't need a plug but some bricks are too hard for them so plugs and screws will be fine...

It is an odd spec, accoya looks cheap but is really expensive and is a very poor choice for structual work.

On you tube everyone seems to have an amazing beechwood workbench which it would be a real shame to do any actual work on in case you marked it. In reality I expect many people like me get by with something that doesn't wobble which you can make quickly with some 4x2, screws and ply or MDF.

I watched about half the Malliard video but then got bored and disagree with him. There's always several ways to approach a woodworking problem and making a mock frame door seems perfectly suitable. To deal with the problems of proportion and fixing you'll need a 15 or 18 mm sheet and use glue...

PVA generally makes a good non stick surface once dry. I wouldn't use it as a paint.

A planer thicknesses will enable you to use a wider range of timber much more easily. It will literally save you days of work per project. Many 'essential' gadjets cost far more than they're worth and have set up times that negate any time saved . Spend as much as you can afford on a good...

Evening class at a local FE college ?

22mm chipboard t&g flooring works for me, nice and slidey smooth face and cheap

I can't see any benefit from doing it that way.