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Put the piece that's all bark back on the firewood pile, you'll never make anything worthwhile from it and any moisture change will cause it to move.

I've used foxed tenons making doors. It's a relief when you tighten up the sash cramps and the joint fully closes , there's plenty of potential for it to go wrong.

I find XL joinery and J B Kind do ok doors with good thick veneers and trimmable edges available from builders merchants or benchmark if there's one near you. If you can check the weight of doors online this is a fairly good indication of quality or at least a heavier door will feel good once...

The block that holds the guides has two holes at the rear one used to hold the thrust bearing the other for mounting they can be swapped if that helps. The blade should run near the edge of the bearing so it can rotate in theory.

Surely on a jointer or planer the indeed table should be below and parallel with the outfeed table not level with it. The step up between them is the depth of cut. I have my planer set to move a rule 8mm when the cutter is rotated 3 mm seems a bit low check the instructions on your machine not...

My neighbours metal shed of similar size was on a concrete base and securely bolted to it until one windy night it left and perched in a tree.

I think the three bits in the back will stiffen it up enough to stop any racking. 36 mm edging on 18 mm shelves should be ok for a 1200 mm span as well. I don't think the lipping has to extend to the end so a shadow gap will work as the maximum bending stress in the shelf is in the middle so...

15mm way too thin for a shelf spanning 1200mm. Normally 18 mm is ok up to 1000mm but 1200mm might be a stretch. If the lipping on the sketch is more than decorative say 28 mm deep by 40 mm wide that would stiffen the shelves or use 25 mm plus solid timber or ply. A plinth will help with racking...

No need for building regs approval as you say, but it's wise to do a repair that's structurally sound . So doing the job to regs is sensible. In that age/ type of building it's likely that the roof timbers are softwood so replacement with like seems in keeping and economical

Any builders or timber merchant should be able to do you a treated softwood in the size you need, do check the span tables in regs part A to make sure it's ok or bigger. Old buildings particularly sheds may not have timber sizes that would be considered good enough now . Green oak has...

If one piece is being both wall plate and lintel over the openings then the size needed will depend on the pitch of the roof, span of the openings, spacing of purlins and expected imposed (snow) load. You can look at part A (structure) of the building regs ,it's available free online at...

The birds mouth on the rafter will typically be 50-70 mm for a low pitch roof like that so there's really no point having a wide wall plate if you're only bearing on part of it.

A wall plate doesn't need any strength as it is fully supported either by cement bed or studs if it's timber frame. The wall plate needs to be fixed down to stop it being pushed off the wall, either use bent straps nailed to it and then screwed to wall or use frame fixings down into the wall...

Standard wall plate is 75 x100 mm treated and widely available. If you need a lintel use steel under the wall plate or a timber lintel. You can get treated sleepers at 2.4 or 3.0 m in 125 x 300 mm from garden centers or builders merchant

A nice looking unit at £945 with a granite top which suggests that the manufacture paid less than £100 for the wood. Ash is quite cheap at the moment due to ash dieback and a lot of felling, £30 cu ft for rough sawn ,add for machining and its hard to see why your quote is so high .If you can...

East coast fiberglass

I doubt explosion is a risk in any home setup, the only worry is that a small static shock might make you jump . Planer chips bouncing through corrugated flex duct seem to generate most static in my experience though the new hose with a spiral wire in it stops that. If it's only a small system...

Oak would be fine and any outside now will be about 20% so no problem there. Oak may need a bit of oil to keep it from soaking up too much water and growing lichens, iroko or teak are better choices if available.

4 inch will work better as the increased airflow can carry more debris and the fan won't be under as much strain. Using galvanised spiral ducting you won't have a static problem and though the pipe is about the same price as PVC the bends and joints are cheaper.

Cut in repair pieces first using a good timber either top grade softwood or hardwood. If two hinges were not sufficient use three. When there's a risk the door might warp it's usual to use top, bottom and centre , but if weight is the main concern put two at the top ,the first 4-6" below top of...