Search results

I think candian red cedar is another name for western red cedar which often comes from Canada . Any wood that can last outdoors will not be that cheap, try decking suppliers for reasonably priced western red cedar which will be in a size that should be ok for your project, it's also quite light...

You will need to raise the bottom drawer 50 mm+ off the floor so it can open, by putting the unit on a plinth or just having a filler piece.

Reds/ red deal means redwood, any kind of pine, generally Scots pine ,as found par in any timber / builders merchant or DIY shed. Whites are firs and spruces which are mostly considered inferior to reds unless named ie. Douglas fir

Glue is not usually used. Cut all parts and paint with preservative before assembly. Two fixings per board. Traditionally nails are used which pass through about 1/2 inch which are then clenched( bent over). Screws from the back seem to work nowadays.

It's probably reds so I would make a new one from the same. The details are important, the top of the ledges should have a slope of at least 8 degrees to shed water . In the photo you can see they are flat and rot has started on the lower ledge. Also knock off all arrises (90 degree corners)...

For security you can't remove the unit if it's been fitted with double sided glazing tape without running a knife blade all around the inside of the unit. You cannot remove the unit from the outside.

With the sections used on a bed any timber apart from balsa should be strong enough. With ash dieback there's a lot on the market now so it's probably the cheapest option or just go to a yard and see what they have, chesnut and wild cherry are both good options if available and are cheaper than...

Definitely external beading. I use aluminum bottom bead from Exitex because a wooden bottom bead will rot very quickly. Glazing tape to the frame allows a bit of movement, angled setting blocks under the unit keep it above any standing water and allows draining. Tape on the beading is neater and...

An MCB , the black switches, trip on overload, the red rcd trips on earth leakage. Try checking the plug for loose wires then call seller.

With the etsa knives you don't need to reset in practice but it's worth checking in case you do . It's not the same as tersa which are self setting.

On a flat surface like a table you can use other glues to make it easier to glue down , I used cascamite on mine. This doesn't work on verticals though.

You can make your own sips 8 X 8 ft on a 4 x4 " frame. Use 100 mm polystyrene (jablite) panels with 4x1 edging and a 2x1 centre stud. Spray on instastick gun foam then nail on a 9 mm OSB panel with ring shank nails on both sides. Fix to frame with wafer head screws next to but not through...

Don't sand surfaces to be glued . It just fills the pores with dust that won't brush, hoover or wipe out and that stops the glue contacting the surface effectively and reduces joint strength. Also do your glue up before workshop dust has settled onto fresh surfaces. If your planks are 42 mm...

I think in a proper butchers block all the blocks are loose and clamped in by a hefty metal or timber frame. When the block becomes dished from use the frame can be loosened and the blocks knocked up to make a flat surface again. Not an easy construction for anyone and clearly beyond that wood...

I gave up on normal blades and went for disposable as you get two sharp edges for not much more than one resharpened one. Also don't need to reset the holders.

You can use a thinned down shellac till it's almost water consistency or any paint with a meths solvent often sold as stain blocking such as Zisser bin or Rustins MDF sealer. They dry fast typically 15 minutes so you can do both sides at almost the same time and don't add water and the solvent...

Probably all of the above. Standard MDF does like to soak up moisture. I like to seal with a shellac type sealer which has a meths/alcohol solvent which won't swell the mdf and dries quickly , then use normal paint. Plywood can still twist even the best stuff. A framed panelled door might be...

I have dismantled an old cabin bed and think I could make a useful chest of drawers with the bits. There's three drawers already nicely dovetailed together but square sided, i.e. no overlap of the front. Does anyone know of any type of drawer runners that would work with them? None of the...

You can buy a door as in the photo. If it's on a shower room particularly a wet room moisture is the problem , less so temperature. Good timber selection with regards to grain and growth ring orientation for the frame , ledges and braces will reduce any twist or bow. Use narrow boards for the...

If it's new build surely it's standard size. Can't they find a manufactured door they like and just pay you to do a stress free fit ?