Timber choice for external door ?

[Blister]

Hi People , I need to replace this door and frame as it is rotten
Not sure what timber would be the best choice , It is a external door and exposed to all seasonal elements
Any advice please .

C7371EB3-6D23-422D-8360-BFA2186D0AD5 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150639903@N08/, on Flickr

 

[Fitzroy]

A durable hardwood, like oak, would give you good longevity with minimal maintenance, but will be expensive. A painted softwood (redwood), likely similarly to what it was originally made of, will be cheaper but will require maintenance painting over the years. The nuclear solution would be a painted Accoya frame and door but it’s also the most expensive.

Installing with a small gap between the bottom of the frame and door would give better longevity as it will reduce the likelihood/duration of wood being wet.

 

[Jones]

It's probably reds so I would make a new one from the same. The details are important, the top of the ledges should have a slope of at least 8 degrees to shed water . In the photo you can see they are flat and rot has started on the lower ledge. Also knock off all arrises (90 degree corners) with a plane or router so the paint film goes round and doesn't thin there. I would be tempted to stand the board ends in a bucket of preservative before assembly as well. Making it a bit shorter to leave a gap under will also help. And lastly use a good paint, look for one that will last 5+ years before recoat. I like sikkens paints.

 

[Daniel2]

If it's going to be painted, I would say any of the exotic hardwoods
will be fine. Oak if the wood is going to be seen.
+1 for the advice about leaving a decent gap at the bottom.

 

[Ollie78]

Accoya if your feeling rich and its going to be painted. Otherwise Utile, Iroko,Oak etc.

Ollie

 

[Blister]

Thanks for the suggestion , now need to find a timber yard in my new location .

 

[Doug71]

I made a couple out of Sapele for a customer about a year ago. I left the wood outside for a couple of weeks before making them (it was under cover from the overhang of my shed roof so it didn't get rained on but still outside) and when I made them I left a 2mm gap between each board, Aluminium primed and 2 coats of a spirit based top coat before they were fitted.

Last time I saw the gates there was no gap between the boards and you could see the outside boards had been pushed out a bit, luckily they still worked fine and I'm sure they will shrink back a bit when the weather is better but just a warning to allow for the boards to move if you use Sapele (or any kiln dried timber).

I try and convince customers to go for Accoya whenever possible these days but it did seem a bit over the top for a back gate.

Here is one before the posts got cut off.

The other was under a brick arch so a bit more protection but it still expanded a bit.

 

[eribaMotters]

Tanalised softwood, cut ends soaked in green cuprinol and then aluminium primed before a water based finish such as Dulex Weathershield Aquatec, or whatever it's called now. Should last many decades if you have constructed it correctly and paint every 3 or 4 years.

Colin

 

[Blister]

Regarding the expansion / contraction gap how many fixing screws would you use on each board and would you also glue up ?

 

[Daniel2]

Regarding the expansion / contraction gap how many fixing screws would you use on each board and would you also glue up ?

I most certainly wouldn't glue between the boards.

 

[Blister]

I most certainly wouldn't glue between the boards.

Sorry I meant the cross braces not between the boards

 

[Daniel2]

Sorry I meant the cross braces not between the boards

Again not. There is absolutely no need for any adhesive in that
type of construction.

 

[Jones]

Glue is not usually used. Cut all parts and paint with preservative before assembly. Two fixings per board. Traditionally nails are used which pass through about 1/2 inch which are then clenched( bent over). Screws from the back seem to work nowadays.

 

[johnnyb]

the most important thing is to paint behind the battens and also paint the t and g.i use red deal and spray preserver on everything first. simply because t and g and vee is not really available off the shelf in many woods(I have brought sapele buts it's not cheap.) and its a bog door not a thing of beauty.
it's available in several thicknesses and qualities in red deal I can also get white deal buts it pants

 

[Blister]

the most important thing is to paint behind the battens and also paint the t and g.i use red deal and spray preserver on everything first. simply because t and g and vee is not really available off the shelf in many woods(I have brought sapele buts it's not cheap.) and its a bog door not a thing of beauty.
it's available in several thicknesses and qualities in red deal I can also get white deal buts it pants

I looked that up and can't find anything ?

 

[Jameshow]

Glue is not usually used. Cut all parts and paint with preservative before assembly. Two fixings per board. Traditionally nails are used which pass through about 1/2 inch which are then clenched( bent over). Screws from the back seem to work nowadays.

I'd be wary of modern screws which often seem quite brittle,. I've seen cladding bust the heads off screws before..

 

[Jones]

I looked that up and can't find anything ?

Reds/ red deal means redwood, any kind of pine, generally Scots pine ,as found par in any timber / builders merchant or DIY shed. Whites are firs and spruces which are mostly considered inferior to reds unless named ie. Douglas fir

 

[johnnyb]

interestingly I was looking through hasluck and he makes reference to at least 3 different preservation processes. some involving pressure.....in 1907 and the process seems mature. maybe that's why old red deal lasted so well?

 

[eribaMotters]

I think there will be several reasons for the longevity of old timber products. The 90% that were not made to an exacting standard have long rotted, so you are already looking at the best in what is left. The use of resinous softwood, weathering techniques such as drip edges and lead based paint have all done a good job.

Colin

 

[highwood122]

just stick my nose in, galv nails clenched properly not just bent over is best job