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Interesting... I learn something new with every post. These windows were built in the 1930s. As far as I know they have never had any weatherstrip-type seals, (or in fact seals of any kind) and certainly there is no groove in the casements or fixed frames where someone might have installed one...

Thanks for the benefit of your experience. I'm not totally committed to a bulb seal. But one thing is that, for some reason, all the fixed frames (i.e. that part of the window attached to the building) here have a very shallow groove, perhaps 8 mm wide, into which I'm hoping the heads of the...

Thanks. I've already acquired a groover bit very much like that from Wealden, and a couple of cheaper bits for the rabbet side of things inspired by your advice. Fully aware of the issue of "too many power tools"! In fact I prevaricated quite a bit even before getting a router: I have some wood...

More great advice, thanks. Got it re cheapo, pattern bits. What do you mean by a "Fein saw"? ... "Fein" appears to be a brand, which produces things like multi-tool devices (oscillating blade): is this what you mean? I have a recip saw already but it would (obviously) be much better to ease...

Got it, great. Lead paint! ... yes, I'll be wearing hearing protection, and also now mask in well-ventilated space.

Thanks again. I understand what you're recommending now and it's great to hear the voice of experience. Hadn't occurred to me that putty could run a high-quality bit and therefore use a cheapo one...! But I'm apprehensive about low-quality bits: aren't they more likely to shatter, thus posing...

Tips like this from someone like yourself with experience specific to my task are like gold dust. So I looked at the Mighton site. Although there are some things about casements there (all my windows are casements), it seems mainly about sashes. The weatherstrip seal I'm favouring is a bulb...

Thanks. Not entirely 100% sure I understand your recommendations about cutting the rebates (I'm not a professional, like so many of the people here), but I think I get the gist: yes, bearing-guided cutter sounds like what I should use. As mentioned in my previous post, I was wondering whether...

Thanks, this is really helpful. If these non-opening casements are indeed glued in place I was planning to use a recip saw to extract them. But it had certainly occurred to me that there might be nails or screws involved there, making it potentially quite a nasty job. I think I'm right in saying...

Sorry, I just don't understand what technique you're describing here. I'm not a wood professional, and will have to be learning on the job as I refit my casements. These are very very simple 1930s casements, with no complicated rabbet arrangement, as you typically find in contemporary...

Thanks. As I said in my original post, "am a total newb when it comes to routers." I have an extremely healthy respect for these tools, which are probably among the most potentially dangerous. But understanding what bit (of the many available) to use for these 2 jobs is not something I can just...

Thanks. Could you just expand on what you mean when you say "use your first bit"... you mean the first bit I included a link to: "compression 1 flute"? Why would it be better to use that than a "groover" bit? Secondly, this picture you've shown here of the Torquata bit with graduated collars...

It's encouraging to hear you say this. One thing which occurs to me: this original attempt at building shelves with parana pines was going to involve some pretty deep shelves, maybe 225 mm, something like that: the idea being that some hardback books simply won't fit on 150 mm shelves. I think...

I can believe that, yes. Not sure at which point of the process you're advocating such an "intervention" :). There was an earlier post where one poster says to stack freshly delivered boards attaching them to each other with cleats and put a big weight on top... to try to prevent movement...

Ha! Inexperienced doesn't mean young, unfortunately! I certainly agree that you have to be critical watching Youboob and try to understand (or guess) the motivations of the presenters. Terminology-wise, my understanding so far is that a jointer and a planer are not the same thing, and it would...

That's an interesting point - seems consistent with Adam W.'s comment "The trouble with todays merchant timber is that it is grown too fast and cut too early."

Thanks. A couple of previous posts in this thread covered this business of quartersawn and other cuts (this one, for example). I'll do a bit of research next week into this kind of engineered board (e.g. prices). This does sound like it could be a very good option, particularly if the choice is...

Yes, I'd say I knew that even before I bought my troublesome parana pine years ago, as described. I just want an end result that looks and acts pretty much like the many solid wooden or (engineered wood) objects in my house. For 000s of years human beings have made things using solid wood and...

It looks like nice stuff. From what I've googled, plywood is said to be a "type of engineered wood". But some of the things on offer at the link to sr-timber.co.uk seem like they might be better than general ply... Maybe you might say what types of engineered woods would be good (e.g. for a...

Thanks... this overlapped with my last edit. So no need for a long period of acclimatising? When you say "planer thicknesser", is this a machine that incorporates a "jointer", i.e. to deliver a board at least one side of which has no lengthways or side-to-side bowing, and is completely...