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Yes, this is precisely correct. The 33 degree bevel I ground on 40 grit sand paper on a Worksharp. I work the 45 degree bevel on the 1000 grit stone each time until I detect a burr and observe that the previous 47 degree bevel is gone, and then I install the 47 deg bevel on the polishing...

Many people clearly don't recognize this, but Derek has it right. The question was about why these planes seemed to behave so differently. And the various answers have clarified my thoughts and given me ideas for things I might try to further my understanding. Trial an error, completely...

My planes are Veritas. The irons are A2. I have Shapton Professional ceramic stones. I flatten them regularly on a DMT diamond plate (45 micron). I have a 1000, 5000 and 8000. In following Charlesworth's method I have not been using the 5000, though. I've been working the secondary bevel...

As I noted above, I use what Leif Hanson is calling the microbevel approach. I am definitely not trying to hone the entire bevel. My secondary bevel had grown kind of large, though. I ground it back. But it's flat, not hollow. Since I've never had anything hollow ground I don't know how a...

I agree that my secondary bevel was too wide. I've ground it back and will see tonight how many strokes it takes. Regarding the question of when to stop, it seems conceivable that the back of the blade could be worn so that removing the tertiary bevel isn't sufficient. Checking for the burr...

I like to understand what I'm doing. If I observe things I don't understand and I just keep working...then I won't learn and my skills won't improve. That is why I ask these sorts of theoretical questions. Yesterday I didn't have much time in the shop (not unusual) and grinding back the...

I have been attempting to follow the method described by David Charlesworth wherein I hone the secondary bevel at 45 deg until I feel the burr. Then I remove the burr on the polishing stone, and then I hone at 47 on the polishing stone 5 strokes in each position which creates a new tertiary...

I live in the Eastern USA. The blade that launched this discussion has 3 bevels at about 33 deg, 45 deg and 47 deg. Someone asked me how big my bevel was, and I took a look and realized it was kind of big---3 mm. So I ground the primary bevel and reduced the size of the secondary bevel to...

I'm a little puzzled by this. It looks like first I'm asked why I use the ruler and then the answer is supplied. :?: Well, when I sharpen as suggested by Charlesworth, no. However before I adopted his methods I used to attempt to raise a burr from the back on each stone. I'm not sure how...

I wasn't aware of such a big difference in performance with the previous timber I worked (cherry). So I was surprised. If the answer is simply that high angle cutting requires more frequent sharpening that's a fine answer. I'm honing a secondary bevel and then applying a tertiary bevel. The...

It took about a minute instead of the normal 10 minutes. Then the blade resumed cutting and cut for at least another 15 minutes.

That's not what I normally do, but I tried it in this case. The puzzling thing is that it seemed to work and the various posts here suggest it shouldn't have.

I agree that a continuous motion sounds like it would work better in theory in terms of producing the desired curved edge. But in practice it seems difficult for me to produce a continuous motion with confidence that I'm really working across the edge uniformly. Rather than being able to...

I started a new topic at https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post495251.html#495251 to talk about basic sharpening in the hopes of keeping this one for talk about relief angles and blade geometry. In my new post I answer Bugbear's questions about my sharpening technique.

The stone is a 1000 grit shapton stone. My goal was to get the equivalent of the 0.25 mm camber recommended by David C. But because of the 12 degree bed angle, this translates to a 0.8 mm camber. This number is the distance the outside edge of the blade would rest above a straight edge. I am...

In the past my stones weren't flat and I would work for ever to try to get the burr to reach the edges of the blade because the bevels (and the backs) weren't flat. Fixed that, I think. I did say that the 45 minutes case occurs when things aren't working properly. One example is the blade...

I agree that if I want to focus on the bevel up vs. bevel down issue that getting the cutting angle the same makes sense. I think my other BU blade is sharpened at 35 which is closer, at least, so maybe I can try comparing that one. Is most of the wear on the underside? It's not evenly split...

This is very helpful to know. It explains why the bevel up and bevel down planes behave differently. Little beyond my budget, I fear. :( I don't understand how this procedure would change anything. If I hone until a burr is raised and then work the back (with the ruler trick) until a burr...

Perhaps it's significant that I'm not in the UK. The picture is a bit bland, but looks reasonable. The description seems reasonable. My first experience with this timber was from a mail order supplier who claimed it weighed 31 lbs/ft^3. But the board felt heavy so I weighed it and the...

The thickness was 1/2 - 3/4 inch. I think they would work well for holding things down (as opposed to keeping things from sliding) so I haven't completely given up on finding an application for them some day.