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What kind of planer, sorry, thicknesser is that by the jointer/planer 🙄? Now the fun begins manhandling that top to work on. 😉 Pete

Some of it depends on the aluminium. I presume you are using 6061 either soft or T6. Soft you will definitely want a lubricant the harder T6 you might getaway without but better with. There are cutting waxes designed for the job that you rub on the blade or along the cut line. Eg. Amazon.co.uk...

Plastic flanged bushings (bushes in UK speak) would do the trick and are self lubricating. Delron, Tufnol, UHMW, Nylon etc can be bought ready made or made to order. If you can find stock flanged bushings then they could be easily and quickly replaced if the wear. You could use brass or bronze...

I was using the term "water" rather loosely. It would have to be an antifreeze mix of one type or another to keep it from freezing etc. I do understand not wanting to keep a warm shop you don't use a lot. Pete

Since you are considering putting in an insulated concrete slab you could put piping in it to take heated water from the wood stove to warm it up too. It might be enough to keep the inside temperature up enough to keep from freezing although you might have to use it every day. In the same vein...

Get some alcohol and in a spot on the back try rubbing a little on it. If it is Shellac it may melt it together enough to smooth it. Effectively refinishing the surface with the existing finish. If you get good results do the front. Pete

Got any friends that are good welders? Flat bar could be welded or brazed to the end of the 20mm rod, then drilled and lastly made round with a few files and sandpaper. You could also do it by cutting the round stock to have just the flat centre and then weld on the two cheeks. Pete

A baltic birch plywood scrap 6mm to 9mm thick makes a nice base and is easy to work with. You can make it bigger than you think you need and after using it for a while, cut it down or reshape it until you are happy. Then if you want a clear base get some plastic and copy it. Pete

Black iron pipe was used exclusively for natural gas piping in houses for many years which makes old houses a great source for the pipe. Now it is a mix of iron pipe and a stainless corrugated flexible pipe, easier to fit in complicated spaces. Pete

Unfortunately you guys get brutalized with taxes of all kinds. The Bessey clamps cost £16 here or a little less when not on sale. I would suggest the Jorgensen Pony Clamps but they were bought out a good number of years ago and I have no idea where they are made or if the quality remains. Half...

Bessey make pipe clamp heads. They must be sold there somewhere. Beware of the cheap ones. Many are not worth the time it takes to put them on a pipe...

I find it odd that kids old enough to play with tops eat them too and they probably have a box of the same pens to draw/colour with. The tasty treats given to them by their parents. Getting bold colour with hard definition lines is not going to be easy. Best suggestion I have is to use pre-dyed...

An edge sander or even a disc sander if you have them. Very coarse grit to begin with switching to finer as you go. Whatcha making? Pete

Good improvising by tripling the clamps. If you were going to make a habit of doing long glue-ups I would tell you to get some pipe clamp heads and a few lengths of pipe, threads at each end. That lets you join them into a long clamp with couplings or the protective ones they put on the ends of...

You are describing a beam cutter unless I misunderstand. https://www.praziusa.com/12-beam-cutter-model-pr-2700/ Pete

If one application doesn't produce the results you want, do it again. Don't put a finish on until you are happy with the blackness. Pete

Ebonizing is very easy. There is lots on the web if you want to poke around a bit. Get steel wool making sure it isn't oiled to prevent rust. If it is you'll have to wash it out with dish soap and rinse it clean. Iron filings or fine swarf from turning or milling metal will work too. Put it in...

I was taught to do wide glue ups in stages. Basically what others are saying but I don't type as fast. Only thickness what you need to to get a relatively even surface and then glue the boards together but no more width than your thicknesser can handle, 12" for example. Try to glue so the grain...

TRITON your best damn mitre thing is good for picture frames and door and window casings but the op is doing mitred corners on small box sides. How would that make corners on 100mm to 200mm high box sides in hardwoods including tropical? Derek's donkey ear is the cats behind. Pete

The animal you are after is a Donkey Ear Shooting Board, preferably adjustable, at least until you get it dialled in. Make it yourself to suit the sizes you are playing with. While a block plane may work a bigger or shooting plane would be better. From your description you are almost there, your...