Recent content by Setch

I also have some excess Omega bushboard 'Maryland Fonse' which is dark grey speckled decor. I bought 5 metres a few years back to re-edge a workshop after a kitchen rejig (as I couldn't buy a smaller quantity) then discovered I already had excess stashed away from the original install. £50...

Ooh, that looks pretty interesting. Thanks for the heads-up.

Any interest at £50? I'm trying to reorganise the workshop and could really do with this finding a new home.

My gut says cut the hole first, then laminate and flush trim. If you cock up the hole in ply you can patch and get away with it. If you chip the laminate or stray from the line you're sh*t out of luck. No experience to inform this position, so take with a pinch of salt.

Does this answer your question? Which forum? I was a long term poster at the MIMF, and an admin on Projectguitar.com, as well as posting a luthiery blog called "Luthier than Thou" for quite a while.

Before glue up I pared the face of remaining half of the original tenon so it was clean and flat, and prepared a wedge to fill the gap where it split along the shortgrain. Then, creative clamping strategies! The beech scrap had some abortive carving experiments on it, so I jammed in a...

There then followed quite a lot of messing about trying to get the shoulders scribed to fit without minimal gaps. I cut the tenon to length, and started test fitting to the chair so I could do some preliminary shaping of the tenon before it was glued into the back. The back is quite...

Next, I'll need a tenon. I cut one on my tablesaw crosscut jig, then traced round a 3/8" bearing so I could shape a matching radius to the mortise. I little chisel and file work produced a nicely fitting tenon. I knocked the joint together with a hide mallet, and then couldn't get it...

So, how to graft on a new tenon, ideally without it showing? I considered trying to drill down the endgrain for a dowel, but wasn't convinced I could do it accurately, and I wanted to maximise the glue area, ideally without removing what little was left of the tenon, as this would help me cut...

I've repaired a few spindle backed chairs in the past, and this has mostly been a case of fresh glue, and fresh wedges in the wedged through tenons under the seat. This one is a bit more challenging. It's the second attempt on this chair. The first attempt with new wedges and liberal...

I've done this with 2 sets of clamps, so I glue up one door, set it aside in clamps, and glue up another. By the time I have the second door in clamps and the squeeze-out cleaned up I can unclamp the first door, and lay it flat to finish drying. This is with MR MDF 5 piece doors with loose...

I have the DCF887 with 3 speeds and it's great. It's not perfect, eg: 1 of the 3 LEDs stopped working when it was still relatively new, and the trigger sensitivity takes a bit of getting used to, but overall it's been a real trooper. Tons of poke when required, and pretty compact compared to...

Like Doug71 says, you'll need a sashlock and the corresponding rebate kit. I can confirm they're a chore to fit.

I replaced some bureau hinges for a client a few years back, and my invoice describes them as 'back flap hinges'. A google of this finds some likely suspects.

Even if he can get them elsewhere, a letter to Festool requesting samples would be pretty good addition to the project.