For security reasons, I recently decided to build some new side hinged wooden doors to replace my mess of a gliderol door
I initially settled on a beautiful set of carriage doors with raised panels and patterned glass inserts. This would have worked well with existing front doors in my area and would have given much needed light to a workshop that's far too dark.
After much to and fro with my neighbors, the only palletable option appeared to be to go for a reserved tongue and groove option. The advantage to this compromise is that I can make two 6'6 tall storage units for tstak boxes for all my tools on the reverse of the doors, similar to something a Festool owner would make, only practical rather than pretty. I joke
Unfortunately the driveway is on a slight incline and full height doors can't open outwards, so a threshold needs to be made. It occurred to me that wheeling a 200kg+ motorcycle over that everyday would soon get boring and eventually I want to get an old bandsaw (you know like a DR) and I think it would pay dividends to think about how to get things like that in and out at this stage. As such I've resolved to make the threshold cut in four parts so that I can hinge that up and back on itself for getting things through the half width. I hope that makes sense but I'm sure to finish that soon so pictures to follow. Halfwidth is fine as the opening is generous and my equipment lines the walls anyway.
I wasted a few days this week rescuing the glass I wanted from some old doors I picked up on Gumtree. To now not be able to use it is a blow but I'll keep it for a similar future project.
I spent Thursday collecting and face and edges squaring the rough sawn timber from everyone's favourite diy store. I used my DeWalt PT for that. It's a good machine but very hard to find info on in a pickle as it's very closely named to the current DeWalt 733 thicknesser. This operation was a bit sketchy without a roller set up but bumbled through.
Cut to size on my equally inadequate mitre saw cart. I thought that cart was a great idea when I started out but the wings don't stay square under load. Eventually I'm going to combine my mitre saw or a radial arm saw (I have a thing for old equipment) with a split top roubo where the tool well can also function as a fence for the cross cut machine in question
And then the latter half of Thursday realizing I couldn't drill into the steel lintel above the door to attach the head of the frame. I went out to get some grab adhesive to try that on Friday morning. Unfortunately it's so, so cold out that this adhesive has taken a day and a half and still doesn't seem all that set to me. This is still being held up in the centre with drywall props which I daren't move. Shims were used to compensate all round for the less than level and square opening. Brick lines along the diagonal check for coplanar. Thanks to Will1983 for this one!
I initially settled on a beautiful set of carriage doors with raised panels and patterned glass inserts. This would have worked well with existing front doors in my area and would have given much needed light to a workshop that's far too dark.
After much to and fro with my neighbors, the only palletable option appeared to be to go for a reserved tongue and groove option. The advantage to this compromise is that I can make two 6'6 tall storage units for tstak boxes for all my tools on the reverse of the doors, similar to something a Festool owner would make, only practical rather than pretty. I joke
Unfortunately the driveway is on a slight incline and full height doors can't open outwards, so a threshold needs to be made. It occurred to me that wheeling a 200kg+ motorcycle over that everyday would soon get boring and eventually I want to get an old bandsaw (you know like a DR) and I think it would pay dividends to think about how to get things like that in and out at this stage. As such I've resolved to make the threshold cut in four parts so that I can hinge that up and back on itself for getting things through the half width. I hope that makes sense but I'm sure to finish that soon so pictures to follow. Halfwidth is fine as the opening is generous and my equipment lines the walls anyway.
I wasted a few days this week rescuing the glass I wanted from some old doors I picked up on Gumtree. To now not be able to use it is a blow but I'll keep it for a similar future project.
I spent Thursday collecting and face and edges squaring the rough sawn timber from everyone's favourite diy store. I used my DeWalt PT for that. It's a good machine but very hard to find info on in a pickle as it's very closely named to the current DeWalt 733 thicknesser. This operation was a bit sketchy without a roller set up but bumbled through.
Cut to size on my equally inadequate mitre saw cart. I thought that cart was a great idea when I started out but the wings don't stay square under load. Eventually I'm going to combine my mitre saw or a radial arm saw (I have a thing for old equipment) with a split top roubo where the tool well can also function as a fence for the cross cut machine in question
And then the latter half of Thursday realizing I couldn't drill into the steel lintel above the door to attach the head of the frame. I went out to get some grab adhesive to try that on Friday morning. Unfortunately it's so, so cold out that this adhesive has taken a day and a half and still doesn't seem all that set to me. This is still being held up in the centre with drywall props which I daren't move. Shims were used to compensate all round for the less than level and square opening. Brick lines along the diagonal check for coplanar. Thanks to Will1983 for this one!