Teensy chisel

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bugbear

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Just bought (from a dealer, for once) the narrowest chisel I've ever seen.

It's in the fairly familiar semi-mortise style, of which I have several examples, all at around the 1/8" size. They're very handy.

But the new one mike's at 0.072", or near enough 1/16". :shock:

I'm planning to use a wide based jig to restore and sharpen it.

The brand is Frost of Norwich, which was a large (indeed, dominant) tool retailer. I don't therefore know who made it.

BugBear
 
Interesting! I'm sure you will be showing us some pictures but I'd like to see if it's that thickness (or should I say thinness) all the way up?
This is my thinnest which I inherited from a friend. The first inch or so is about 3/64" but it's hard to tell if it was made like that or ground down by a user. It's about 3/32" at the rather unclear marks which are on either side so must presumably be the original thickness at that point.

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I have one at 2 mm's but that's a specialist luthiers chisel, not that there's anything special about it. I've made a few from old needle files that are much thinner than that. Mostly I use them as a kind of scratch stock for inlay.
 
A re-check with the micrometer shows a pretty much gradual increase over the length of the blade, from 0.072" to 0.085", 13 thou in all, or about 1/100".

So I think the small size is as "manufactured"

BugBear
 
Any pics on the way? I've not needed to use my chisel yet, but I did try sharpening it and getting a straight end on such a small surface is not as easy as I thought it ought to be, so I'd like to see your method.
 
The narrowest manufactured chisel I've got is 2.2mm, I think. I've got quite a few at 3mm and 3.5mm. Eg:

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My narrowest are ones I made myself, 1.5mm from ground flat stock and 1mm from a jigsaw blade.

And I do use them, eg for making thumb planes, mortices for linings on a violin.
 

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The narrowest I've got is only 1 mm. But it really is a sweep 1 carving chisel, so I don't know if that counts?
 
The small chisel on the right is a 1/16" Iyoroi. The others are Koyamaichi dovetail chisels.

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It was used ...

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... to build a small box with small dovetails ...

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:D

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
AndyT":3r5n8ooy said:
but I did try sharpening it and getting a straight end on such a small surface is not as easy as I thought it ought to be, so I'd like to see your method.

Well, the back was a bit more sensuous than I like, especially near the tip. To remove the curves and convexity I held the chisel vertically by the sides of the blade, and rubbed it on a DMT diamond stone. EDIT; the red one, 25 micron, 50p from a car boot sale, only diamond stone I own.

finger_tips.jpg


You didn't expect me to try that by hand did you?! :shock: The key piece of kit here, apart from my monster jig, was a toolmaker's clamp.

This created a back that was flat, straight and polished, in around 10 minutes. It's a small area.

The bevel tool rather less time - I just used an Eclipse #36 jig in side clamping mode; the wheel was easily wide enough to hold the tip in a stable position for the 60 careful seconds it took; I used an Arkansas stone for this, deeming stone hardness and fine texture to be crucial for such a small working area.

I'm going to re-use the jig setup with coarser abrasive for a 1/8" Sorby OBM chisel I've been putting off restoring; it's quite rusty and pitted including the back.

BugBear
 

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Fantastic jig - wonderfully OTT in appearance, also somehow menacing in a low tech SF dystopian world kind of way, main thing is it works!

Cheerio,

Carl
 
Carl P":32h2i7ea said:
Fantastic jig - wonderfully OTT in appearance, also somehow menacing in a low tech SF dystopian world kind of way, main thing is it works!

It comes in handy sometimes :D

http://www.woodworkinfo.site88.net/tour ... pening_jig

It's really more like a graver sharpener

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Or a ornamental turner's sharpener:

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or even a diamond faceting "tang"

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BugBear
 
Great job, wonderful devices.

Kell no 1 with big wheels also does excellent job on bevel side, for sq edges.

best wishes,
David
 
Ashley Iles still make a 1/16" chisel.

They would be difficult to machine, but for a skilled hand grinder they're no trouble.

Ashley_Iles_Chisels_02_AI_Dovetail_Chisel.jpg


Link

If you want to go really small, how about a curved 1/32" V Tool.

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Link
 
I used mine for dovetails too. I accidentily made the dovetails a bit too narrow.
I can't remember the need for sharpening contraptions though. They sharpen up easilly enough freehand. Just a few swipes on an oilstone to raise a wire edge. They're probably not 90 degrees though, might be 89, or even 88 :oops:

 
Corneel":1yusqmwl said:
I used mine for dovetails too. I accidentily made the dovetails a bit too narrow.
I can't remember the need for sharpening contraptions though. They sharpen up easilly enough freehand. Just a few swipes on an oilstone to raise a wire edge. They're probably not 90 degrees though, might be 89, or even 88 :oops:

Yeah - eventual sharpening was easy and quick. Working the back - not so much.

The back was irregular enough that it wouldn't seat securely on the stone, even allowing for the small size.

It seats very nicely now - removing the burr using the arkansas was a positive pleasure.

BugBear
 
I am sure the jigging for the back was worthwhile.

I have never seen a flat back on an old one of these chisels. The tendency to rock is almost impossible to avoid.

David
 
And the answer is........

Flat near the tip is very desirable.

It allows the wire edge to be properly honed away.

No subsequent messing about with strops required.

David
 
Corneel":3d48igj7 said:
Then we are back to the question, how flat should it be? But that's allready extensively covered elsewhere.
Depends what you are doing with it.
BBs chisel is strictly a mortice chisel - the wide blade could make it difficult for DTs - a fine bevel edged chisel would be better.
As a mortice chisel a fairly straight face is handy for an inch or so. For DTs and other processes it might not matter at all.
 

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