Startrite - Tilt Arbor Circular Saw

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user 19915

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Hi i'm hoping you can help me iv'e bought a startrite table saw tilt arbor 3 phase the only thing is i don't know if it;s working as i don;t have 3 phase so my question to you is there any way i can check it;s working with out using 3 phase ????
I'm attaching some photos i know the start switch is missing and ill have a good look later on so i'm wondering if i can;t test the saw should i sell it as spares and if so what would you recommend ps does it look like the original motor ?
 

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Mock,

Could you post the picture of the motors info plate turned the right way up please as its too hard to read as it is. The picture of the black and white plate is too blurred to read also. Thanks in advance.
 
It's too difficult to see the phase number on the motor plate. The machine plate says 3 phase but the motor could have been changed.
 
3 PHASE IT SAYS ON THE LABEL ON THE MOTOR BUT VERY DIFFICULT TO MAKE OUT I HAD A FLASH LIGHT AND MAGNIFYING GLASS LOL
DO YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE BLADE SHE CAN GO UP TO IT SAID NO SMALELR THAN 182MM ???
 
Where can i get a manual for the startrite tilt arbor table saw ??/
DO YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE BLADE SHE CAN GO UP TO IT SAID NO SMALELR THAN 182MM ???
 
Thank;s i don;t know what model she is either i'm hopping to have the motor tested in the week as i bought it blind and find out what it will cost to change to a single phase or i may sell it on but i have to find out a little more about her first
Mock
 
Loads on ebay from £200 ish and this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/cnc-variable- ... 2592f674e3 for £110 but there might be customs charges on top - pot luck really. Make sure you get one for 220/240v single phase input and 240v 3 phase output and rated at 2200w(2.2kW).

None of the control gear currently on the saw can be reused (wrong voltage)

You will need a dedicated stop start button box to fit onto the saw and the inverter up on the wall away from the direct line of fire for sawdust.
You will also need a 13amp plug and lead to the inverter, a three phase and earth cable from the inverter DIRECT to the motor terminals (possibly re-use the cable that came with it and a control cable from the stop start box to the inverter control input.
You will almost certainly need to wire this up yourself as few conventional electricians seem to understand inverters - more of an industrial product. but it is not difficult to someone practical.
Get the inverter first then decide exactly what other bits you need to save getting stuff you don't then use.
 
Looks like a ts275 to me. I have the same only single phase. Love it. Built like a tank. Has a 5/8 th spindle (blade bore) and reducing rings available of fleabay.
Blackrodd spot on with a crackin' link they have alot of Startrite manuals availble on their website to download.
Have fun with it.
 
Personally, I would swap the Mortor of a single phase motor and increase the power to 2~3kw which will cut through anything all day long. you will need a Cap start, Cap run motor, and it should be circa £200 for a reasonable mortor that is brand new. You can of course keep same the size motor, which is less expensive and then just change the wiring if the switch as I believe the switches are rated for single phase currents and wired for either 1ph or 3ph. If you go for a beafier motor, you will need to check the switch rating and upgrade if necessary.

Try these
http://www.motors-direct.co.uk/index.ph ... &cat_id=65

You will need to take some measyrements to get the right motor. There will be someone locally to you selling motors, the easiest solution is to unfold everything and toddle along and ask them what you need.
 
Thank's for all the reply.s does anyone know what;s the max size blade she can use ???? And before i deiced what im going to do with the saw regarding spending money on here . I;m going to test the motor on her and if she;s o'k i may sell her as she is or spend a few bucks and keep her . I payed £170 for her have i done the right thing only time will tell lol

Mock
 
Here's a link, If its a 275, then it could be this 12"saw blade, priced at £950, --

http://www.homeandworkshop.co.uk/wood.htm
275, tilt arbour, Listed, 4 from the bottom,

pic here,--http://www.homeandworkshop.co.uk/wood.htm
Link's not worked, you will have to get the pic yourself!
I suggest you quote the machine number to the spares link,and they will probably know exactly what model etc you have or measure the infill plate where the saw sits, as an indication.
Regards Rodders
 
Officially it takes a 12" blade, however, I can get a 14" into mine which is the 275 model. However, I can't drop the blade too much as it fouls the tilt mechanism, so I only add the larger blade when I'm ripping 5".

If you look at the Wadkins, they all for a 12" blade have a c1.2KW motor, however it's usual to have 1HP per inch of cut, that's is if your running it on an industrial basis, which very few people are I.e. Constantly being fed all day long with maximum thickness material.

At 4" deoth of cut the saw is OK, but you need to feed slowly especially it's its something like oak. If your planning on cutting thick stuff predominantly I would upgrade the mortor. However, for general purpose use where most stuff is 2~3" think, the same size of motor is just fine.

If your replacing the mortor. Just buy the largest KW you can justify with the pennies available.

You've got an absolute bargain for the price you've paid, and there's always stuff coming up on auction sites where you can add extra bars, insert tables, etc etc for not a large outlay.
 
I have just finished tweaking mine to get it up and running perfectly. Once setup they are fantastic machines. Mine came with the fold down sliding table and full length support bar and legs. You only really need these working in a pro workshop.

Get yourself descent dedicated cross and rip cut blades and you wont be disappointed. Mine has the original single phase motor and devours 3" oak no problem. The fence locks rock solid and once you get the blade parallel with the mitre slots it will run a cross cut sled too.

Enjoy!
 
What do you recommend i clean the table with there are little spots of rust on her and i think it;s a red wax splashes on the table could i use a sander on the table any suggestions welcome
mock
 

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