Spalted Horse Chestnut

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Random Orbital Bob

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Right then, design advice duly absorbed. This is a simple bowl where the "theme" is a simple curve and transitions are all smooth. 9" across, Cellulose SS and Microcrystalline wax.

I didn't copy the idea ie its from the throw it up and have a go camp but was mindful of many of the helpful suggestions ie simple, stick to one theme and manage transitions carefully.

I've not shown the base given I've left the recess as it will inevitably move and need remounting before final reverse turning to finish. Having said that, horse chestnut is the only wood I've ever turned that hardly moves at all if turned wet. I have absolutely no idea why this would be but the little I have is fantastically stable compared to everything else I've ever turned green.

Another thing I noticed today as the temperature is slowly creeping up, the SS went off dam quick making the finish harder to achieve. That chestnut system is looking more attractive by the second!

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Good looking bowl nice flowing curves keeping it simple to start with and then start on the more complicated shapes later.

Even with the buffing system it recommends putting a SS on and as some have said thin it with the correct thinners to about 20%.
 
I like it, clean elegant and functional... pretty wood too, so what more do you want?


You might find it hard to believe but the bandsaw worked today as well, three days in a row !!! Actually I am very impressed the way it cuts using the 3/8" sabre cut blade. I am beginning to think it might actually be useful :)
 
I like that, Mr Bob. As said - nice clean lines and letting the figuring do the 'talking'.

I think I've got some HC spalting at the moment - makes me want to go and spin it up and see what happens.

Cheers

Greg
 
woodfarmer":1ki9l17g said:
I like it, clean elegant and functional... pretty wood too, so what more do you want?


You might find it hard to believe but the bandsaw worked today as well, three days in a row !!! Actually I am very impressed the way it cuts using the 3/8" sabre cut blade. I am beginning to think it might actually be useful :)

Hey that's great news Woody. 3 days you say...... :) Come on then, lets see some gratuitous shots of wet split timber :)
 
That's A bloody Nicely grained wood that you have justice too well done your a busy bee :lol: :lol:
Regards
Bill
 
Nice big bowl, lovely wood. That'd be a keeper in my book!

Re the SS, as above I always use 50:50 diluted SS to begin with on the bare wood, only full strength as a second coat if I think it's needed.
 
That looks nice. I acquired a load of conker a while back, but have yet to do anything with it other than rough turn a couple of bowls. I'm looking forward to seeing how they dry over the Summer.
 
I recommend you keep some outside with the bark side in contact with the ground and the ends painted. The wood is quite a boring sort of dull creamy colour unless it gets spalted. By leaving it outside (mine for a year now) it has taken on that wonderful spalting the photo shows and it turns from really dull into something with a lot more visual interest. The advantage which I confess I don't understand one bit, is it seems incredibly stable in terms of drying movement. It hardly moves at all and yet had the same high water content as measured with a moisture meter as any other green wood I've turned. It just doesn't behave as they do which is to say warp and split very substantially if left un-managed. Perhaps its cell structure is sufficiently different to not change shape in the same way other woods do??
 
Random Orbital Bob":1yc10m76 said:
I recommend you keep some outside with the bark side in contact with the ground and the ends painted. The wood is quite a boring sort of dull creamy colour unless it gets spalted. By leaving it outside (mine for a year now) it has taken on that wonderful spalting the photo shows and it turns from really dull into something with a lot more visual interest. The advantage which I confess I don't understand one bit, is it seems incredibly stable in terms of drying movement. It hardly moves at all and yet had the same high water content as measured with a moisture meter as any other green wood I've turned. It just doesn't behave as they do which is to say warp and split very substantially if left un-managed. Perhaps its cell structure is sufficiently different to not change shape in the same way other woods do??

I found bay wood to be the same, quite stable even when green.
 

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