Sliding Mitre Saw - Rebate Cuts

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Pink Freud

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Hi, are there any sliding mitre saws out there that will cut trenches / rebates that are actually worth a dam?

I realize that this kind of activity is prob best performed on a decent table saw, preferably with a dado stack. Sadly i don't have either as yet, and the sip 12" slider i do have is pitifully inaccurate at this type of operation. The Truth Is Out There? ...or are they all just next to useless at it?

Any advice would be most gratefully appreciated.
 
If you must use your mitre saw for trenching you will have to place a sacrificial piece between the fence and work piece wide enough to achieve full depth saw cuts across your trench.
 
Pink Freud":12uupg73 said:
Hi, are there any sliding mitre saws out there that will cut trenches / rebates that are actually worth a dam?

In my experience, not with any high degree of accuracy.

All rebates I have done on the past have been with a router mounted in a table with feather boards. Probably one of the safer power tool methods.
 
My 12" Bosch CC mitre saw is capable of doing this as it has a depth stop. However, the adjustment of said depth stop is rather rudimentary and it would not be my tool of choice for this job as you would have to play about with set up. However, once that is done, the saw will do it fine within the width limits of the slide.
 
Thx for the replies, yes i did use a sacrificial piece of would wide enough to overcome the curvature of the blade. I don't own a router yet but it is on my wish list. AJB Temple, could u give me some info on the actual model of Bosch saw you have?
 
>If you must use your mitre saw for trenching you will have to place a sacrificial piece between the fence and >work piece wide enough to achieve full depth saw cuts across your trench.

I'm sorry, but I don't understand this comment.
 
When you reduce the depth of cut the curvature of the blade will not fully extend past the fence, hence needing a sacrificial piece of timber against the fence.

Mike
 
I've used mine to ensure nice straight and accurate walls on the trench and to hog out most of the waste, then a poor mans hand router (see Paul Sellers) to finish.

F.
 
My Makita 1013 has a stop that allows the depth to be restricted, useful when your stile and rail cutter is not quite big enough for the thickness of your timber, had it for about ten years and never had to adjust the table angle, still perfect as it came out of the box.

Mike
 
so some of them do actually cut rebates well?

Mean time i have placed an ad for a table saw in the wanted section, as i really don't think i can progress without one.
 
I have the Dewalt DWS 780 sliding compound miter saw. I looked at the Bosch and the Dewalt before deciding on the Dewalt. Although I like the compact arm on the Bosch, I didn't like the LASER as much as I liked the LED lighting on the Dewalt. The LED on the Dewalt casts a sharp shadow of the blade on the piece being cut, so there is no doubt where the kerf will be.

The DWS 780 has a depth adjustment for cutting dados or slots in boards. Go to 6:53 in the video below to see how to set the cutting depth.

[youtube]WufPA9yIJYs[/youtube]
 
I think there's a bit of blade choice at play in the results. A saw with a flat topped tooth pattern will give better results. More so on a table saw Vs a mitre saw due to vertical deflection as you're pulling down with ever so slightly variable pressure on the cut.

I don't have the space for a TS (I did try) but regard using a mitre saw for this as needing some cleanup with chisels if a pretty fit is required.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
Pink Freud":j363k01u said:
Read point No.6 Mike, Same with the Dewalt?

I mean these are both high priced saws, so im thinking i could get a decent amount of table saw for that sort of money.
God do i need a Table saw :roll:

I haven't tried any dado or lap joints using my Dewalt. I would try it on some scrap today, but the Sunday ban on noise will only get me in trouble. I look at drills and saws almost in the same way I did as an apprentice machinist many decades ago. These are tools to remove material. Precision work for metal requires additional tools, such as reamers for holes and mills or files for bulk material.

Concerning the price, yes, they are expensive. However, I don't think I will be buying another miter saw in my lifetime. I hope I can buy lots of replacement blades. :)
 
Nelsun":1amh82ji said:
I think there's a bit of blade choice at play in the results. A saw with a flat topped tooth pattern will give better results
I fully agree that a good blade can make alot of difference, but my issue seems to be the "slop" of the saws mechanism which is giving me uneven trenching from front to back. and being a 12" saw, i think I'm getting some degree of blade deflection aswell.

MikeK":1amh82ji said:
I haven't tried any dado or lap joints using my Dewalt. I would try it on some scrap today, but the Sunday ban on noise will only get me in trouble.
Yikes, house rules, i hear ya. lemme know the results if u get a chance to test it Mike.
 
Pink Freud":1relrtvi said:
Yikes, house rules, i hear ya. lemme know the results if u get a chance to test it Mike.

Not quite...they are Germany rules. No loud noises or exterior house work on Sunday. :evil:
 
MikeK":3tyar0u2 said:
Not quite...they are Germany rules. No loud noises or exterior house work on Sunday. :evil:

Wow :shock: ...so do they like, fine you or something?
 

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