Simple Segment Project W.I.P.

[CHJ]

Now to turn an ugly duckling, if not into a swan, at least something presentable.

As cleaned up with a bowl gouge.

Make your mind up about choice of bowl-lid interface and part out central top waste.

 

[CHJ]

Bore out internals until you reach your intended thickness, most of mine are about 6mm,

I use a round scraper bit on the inside to shear blend any gross tool marks and ridges.

I use a slow drill driver to sand the bulk of the needs down to 240 grit, but the odd rogue grain patch as can be seen in the above image I sand by hand with the grain, and the piece stationary.

Finish off this stage by applying sanding sealer, wiping off surplus runs etc. after a few seconds.

 

[CHJ]

Change Jaws/Chucks again:-

Reverse mount box to clean up base:-

Face off to your preferred foot shape and sand to 240 grit:-

And seal:-

Put on one side ready for lid selection and fit, I leave final finishing until both components are finished to this stage:-

 

[CHJ]

This is it's thread mate worked to the same level, normally I would have turned the stages whilst appropriate chuck was fitted but was not sure I had time, as it happened doing it separately only added a couple of minutes to actual work time for chuck changes.

As far as I can estimate from the EXIF files, between fending 'phone calls etc. the box turning, sanding and sealing approximates 30 mins each.

 

[xraymtb]

Perhaps I've missed it in the past but can you tell me more about the reversing jaws you have made?

 

[CHJ]

Perhaps I've missed it in the past but can you tell me more about the reversing jaws you have made?

They are made from several layers of good quality Ply sandwiched/glued together and wood screwed to wood mounting plate accessory jaws.
You need to prepare four cubes with two sides at least, at 90deg.

I also have an all homemade set for compression use when the Cole jaws won't meet the needs, the wood jaws are sacrificial and are turned to suit individual jobs as required.

They have an aluminium back plate that takes the jaw carrier mounting screw loads. You could always use the larger diameter versions of the wood accessory jaws to achieve the same.

 

[CHJ]

Sorted out a couple of blanks for the lids.
One needed a hot melt spigot block attached and skimmed up to aid turning access.

The other needed sorting for glue up, had not got one small enough in the store, it's design comes with an integral access spigot.

 

[Aled Dafis]

I like your use of the drill for sanding, I take it that you've converted it to run off a transformer of some kind. 12V?

Hmmm..... :idea: #-o #-o

Aled

 

[CHJ]

I like your use of the drill for sanding, I take it that you've converted it to run off a transformer of some kind. 12V?

Hmmm..... :idea: #-o #-o

Aled

I have a couple of those drills I've had for years and the batteries were getting less than useful, yes it runs off a DC power pack (glorified battery charger) I put together many years ago. I like the low speed, much kinder to the abrasive.

 

[ColeyS1]

Superb tutorial - many thanks It's like being inside the mind of a genius reading how you do everything so methodically ! Have you got a website where you sell some of the bits you turn ?

Coley

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[procell]

This should be a sticky thread. Great tutorial.

 

[CHJ]

Lid turning time.

Clean up the underside:-

Mark some guide lines for the lid spigot, I use callipers to transfer the size.

Turn spigot, using box to check final sizing.

Refine fit of spigot heal to box top and start forming of lid top surface.

Sand.

And seal.

As is my normal work method put to one side until jaws/chuck is changed.

 

[CHJ]

Mount next Lid blank.

Clean up face and mark, in this case the box recess diameter not the spigot.

Turn down to fit, using box as size template, and mark spigot diameter.

Turn spigot and start top surface shaping.

Sand and seal.

Part off from hot glue spigot.

 

[CHJ]

Change Chucks, and remount Lid, in this instant I'm using additional support because I cut the periphery rather thin and I don't want to put too much pressure on the chuck.

And finish the bulk of the top surface turning.

Remove the support and finish forming knob, sand and seal.

 

[CHJ]

Likewise finish off the second Lid.

According to the camera I was working on the tops for 66mins.

 

[CHJ]

Now to put a bit of shine on the creations.

After first look at the course wheel

Finishing off the last piece.

And ready to leave the shop.

About 22mins. to buff, including a bit of rework on the first one when a scratch defect was found to have crept in behind my back.

 

[marcros]

And ready to leave the shop.

Not sure that the elephants trunk adds much to the one on the left. think i preferred it without.

great WIP though Chas- interesting to turners and non turners alike.

 

[CHJ]

Not sure they came out as balanced as I would like but there is no accounting for taste and it never ceases to surprise me which folks select to meet their needs so they will be left 'as is' for the time being.

 

[Harry 48]

Thanks for your time and effort in producing this series of pictures great looking projects TOP CLASS

 

[CHJ]

Simple Segment Project PDF (2.6mb)