Turning Time in 2009

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Bodrighy":1hoptpvr said:
Posh toilet roll holders! Something different.

Pete

Hmmmm, will remember that, especially as the Brummie thought it was funny.
 
I must admit the only oil I use Steve is Tesco's finest. A couple of coats on things such as rolling pins, honey dippers etc that need to be food safe. Olive oil goes rancid but sunflower, corn or plain vegetable oil work fine.

Pete
 
CHJ wrote
especially as the Brummie thought it was funny.
Now now Chas,i thought they were beer pump pulls :lol:
But having seen this pair first hand they are very very nice,with the usual lovely finish,and the base is finished of very nicely too :D
 
______
________Some afternoons are just busier than others...____Click on image for larger view
________
________________
________
_______Small Beech Salad Bowls_(140mm)
 
You sure you haven't got a copy lathe hidden away somewhere Chas :lol:
Those look really nice and see the beading tools are coming in handy :D
 
Seven bowls in a day :shock: I can't get through one!

They look fantastic Chas. Simple design for utilitarian use. I'd love a set in our cupboard.
 
wizer":2a0u00gh said:
Seven bowls in a day :shock: I can't get through one!
It's just a case of getting organised Tom, actually the blanks were cut yesterday.
1. prepare all blanks to same dimensions, diameter and thickness, with central hole for screw chuck.
Procedure.
2. turn first to finished diameter, set and lock calipers for checking remainder.
3. face off and pencil mark base socket and bead location with socket gauge.
4. cut socket and inner base relief with parting tool and skew, form bead.
5. thickness blank on front face (chuck side) with parting tool, checking with vernier calipers.
6. form outer curve to blend between bead and rim.
7. sand finish base.
8. remove from screw chuck and mount on socket.
9. cut thickness guide in face with thin parting tool, helps stop bowl gouge tracking over outer edge.
10 hollow out to depth in central area, check with preset depth gauge, blend in curve from rim to base.
11. finish sand, brush off dust, apply initial oil finish, remove from chuck and complete oiling of base.

Repeat: (calipers etc. are set ready, the 4-5 gouges found best for purpose are known.)

wizer":2a0u00gh said:
I'd love a set in our cupboard.
You have a lathe, make it work. :p don't fixate on form, proportions etc, the salad is not going to care and as long as SWMBO is happy to have them in the cupboard they'll do.

Although I say it myself these are far better looking than the one the customer brought along as a sample for size, filled screw holes in base etc.

If you really try you can fit a 15mile round trip to the Gym and an hours warm-up in before you start :lol:
 
As Chas said, it's all about organising it. Nice sharp tools it doesn't take that long to knock out a basic bowl without frills which is what these are (no criticism meant Chas) We can get hung up on being fancy and just keeping it simple is sometimes a lot better.

pete
 
Bodrighy":1h06wmkw said:
As Chas said, it's all about organising it. Nice sharp tools it doesn't take that long to knock out a basic bowl without frills which is what these are (no criticism meant Chas) We can get hung up on being fancy and just keeping it simple is sometimes a lot better.

pete

No criticism read Pete; you summed it up very succinctly.
 
Thanks, the only thing I've turned is a set of is the wheels on the pram I just made. The thought of making more than one thing on the lathe, to be a near copy, fills me with dread. I'll have to dig out four similar bowl blanks and give it a go ;)
 
wizer":35jrfoqz said:
.....The thought of making more than one thing on the lathe, to be a near copy, fills me with dread. .....

Relax, the odd mm here and there is not going to show unless they are measured, even then the fact that any wood used is going to move as soon as, maybe even before, it comes off the lathe is going to mask any slight variation.

Develope the practice of giving yourself aiming points by using parting grooves, finished diameters, chamfered corners etc. then it's just a case of blending between points. Watch the form on the back side of the piece not at the tool edge, it's easier to see the flow of the curve.
 
______
________A relaxing hour in the shed...________Click on images for larger view.
________
________________
________
__________________Yew _____________________(215mm)
 
Very nice Chas,

Can I ask are the tiles simply glued in place or left to float in case of timber expansion ?

Steve
 
Steve Jones":2kzo01bm said:
Very nice Chas,

Can I ask are the tiles simply glued in place or left to float in case of timber expansion ?

Steve

I have always glued mine in place Steve, the smaller ones I use Hot melt, larger diameter cheese boards I use acrylic sealer to allow more give.

Only ever had one Platter move sufficient to show, wood was obviously not as dry as I thought, fortunately it's in the family but user refuses to have it reworked, mind you I don't know how I would get the tile out if they insisted on the same piece of wood.
 
hog&bodge":22w7rt27 said:
relaxing hour in shed...lol..want to be on your Xmas list.
No chance, the list doesn't stop growing as it is.
hog&bodge":22w7rt27 said:
Just spent 3 hours and all I got was sawdust.
It will come, just keep practicing and one day things will start to flow.

If I have one piece of advice for any new turner based on my own attempts to get an understanding with a bit of spinning wood.

Forget trying to get the perfect form, trying to emulate the very skilled, pick a simple task and form and repeat a few times until you can pick up the tool for the next stage without having to think about them.
Then move on to something else simple but requiring a different approach.

After a while you will look at a piece or design and realise which method or tools you would use to create similar, that's the time to start concentrating on the aesthetics.

Nothing wrong in appreciating the work of the accomplished, but most are producing work and styles that they have developed within their own preferences, ability and tool manipulation. Better to master your own abilities that fail to match theirs.

The above of course is just my opinion but it is one that has given me nearly 5 years most enjoyable shed time.
 
Thanks I have come to realize the need to take a step back..
Was working on a piece of spalted beech and it all ended up in
dust and bits flying off...lol.
I have a few books in the post recommended by our members &
will just work from them till like you say get the feel of the tools
and wood.
Also going to attend the wood-turning club near me.

Them Small Beech Salad Bowls look the business I like the way you finish the bases of your work.
Alex..
 
hog&bodge":n8ersae8 said:
.......Them Small Beech Salad Bowls look the business I like the way you finish the bases of your work.
Alex..

I try to remove evidence of holding method if possible rather than just disguise it, having said that sometimes like in the case of the salad bowls it is left on deliberately so that it will be easier to hold them if ever the need arises should the recipient request a clean up of the finish at a future date.
 
If you glue the disc into cheese board then any bits that get between the disc and the wood are really hard to clean out. I would advise that you make them a good fit but don't glue. Also if the wood does move there is a danger of the tile cracking.

Pete
 
Back
Top