Kity 613 Bandsaw Starting/Motor Problems! Please advise

[Dissolve]

Hello,

I recently drove 3 and a half hours to pick up a used Kity 613. I asked to see if working and it seemed pretty solid.. Brought it home, turned it on to do a test cut, seemed fine but a tad noisy..

Turned it off to adjust the fence, then when I switched it on, the motor made a hum and but I had to kick start the blade with a block of wood to get it going. Turned if off again now it won't even switch on. When I press the on switch I get a hum but it won't click on.. it just hums until you remove pressure from the switch..

Obviously I'm quite miffed as the seller obviously knew about these problems and that it was being tempermental.. Does it sound fixable?

Could it be the capacitor and/or switch or am I looking at replacing the motor now?

 

[RogerBoyle]

Hello,

I recently drove 3 and a half hours to pick up a used Kity 613. I asked to see if working and it seemed pretty solid.. Brought it home, turned it on to do a test cut, seemed fine but a tad noisy..

Turned it off to adjust the fence, then when I switched it on, the motor made a hum and but I had to kick start the blade with a block of wood to get it going. Turned if off again now it won't even switch on. When I press the on switch I get a hum but it won't click on.. it just hums until you remove pressure from the switch..

Obviously I'm quite miffed as the seller obviously knew about these problems and that it was being tempermental.. Does it sound fixable?

Could it be the capacitor and/or switch or am I looking at replacing the motor now?

Sorry but If you saw it working how can you now say its tempermental and the seller is at fault.
Its quite possible that some fine debris has got into the motor or switch etc or something has been dislodged in the transportation of the saw
Have you checked the blade guides havent been knocked and are grabbing the blade stopping it from moving easily
Have you tried turning the wheels by hand (with the power off) and seeing if you can pin point where the noise is coming from ????

 

[Dissolve]

Sorry but If you saw it working how can you now say its tempermental and the seller is at fault.
Its quite possible that some fine debris has got into the motor or switch etc or something has been dislodged in the transportation of the saw
Have you checked the blade guides havent been knocked and are grabbing the blade stopping it from moving easily
Have you tried turning the wheels by hand (with the power off) and seeing if you can pin point where the noise is coming from ????

Sorry that was worded badly, I'll rephrase.

It seems extremely unlikely these problems occurred momentarily as it switched on when I collected, and as I mentioned it switched on fine once (slowly, but working) when I got it home. I feel it's beyond reasonable doubt that the seller was unaware of any issue.

The wheels spin fine, and the guides are not touching. The noise when running would appear to be general vibration and normal motor noise in that sense. The motor switched on and hummed, but the blade required a kick start to start running. After that happened twice the switch does not click, it merely hums until the switch has been released.

 

[RogerBoyle]

It sound like it could be the capacitor needs replacing rather than the motor
there is a guy called 9fingers (Bob) that is very good with motors it may well be worthwhile trying to get a hold of him

 

[Steve Maskery]

If it is the starter capacitor, it is a very cheap, easy and quick fix.
S

 

[Dissolve]

If it is the starter capacitor, it is a very cheap, easy and quick fix.
S

Great! If it's a cheap place to start I'll probably go ahead and replace it anyways! Where's a good place to start looking for replacements?

I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to this sort of thing. More than happy to give it a go but are there any do's/don'ts before I try and swap it out? (when I locate a replacement)

Thanks guys!

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've not replaced one on a BS but I did replace one on a vac pump. The capacitor just unscrewed. IIRC the replacement wasn't quite the same size but it was just a case of screwing it in and reconnecting the wires. I think mine came from Maplins and cost a fiver or thereabouts.
S

 

[Dissolve]

I've not replaced one on a BS but I did replace one on a vac pump. The capacitor just unscrewed. IIRC the replacement wasn't quite the same size but it was just a case of screwing it in and reconnecting the wires. I think mine came from Maplins and cost a fiver or thereabouts.
S

Okay thanks, I'll try disconnecting it tomorrow and take it with me on my travels!

On another note, when I cleaned out the motor cavity I found the white plastic motor fan/cover thing was reasonably loose and it just pulled off revealing load of brown tape wrapped around the spindle to pack out the loose push fit..

I'm assuming this needs to be a right fit to stop it flying off once powered on?

 

[CHJ]

......Great! If it's a cheap place to start I'll probably go ahead and replace it anyways! Where's a good place to start looking for replacements?

...

If you can't get a capacitor locally, assuming that's what you need then I have Used This Source with satisfaction

Just make sure you pick a replacement of equal or higher voltage rating and rated for Run not Start, (to cover either function)

If you slacken the drive belt does the motor start with a snatch or does it slowly gather speed or just sit there and hum ?

 

[Dissolve]

......Great! If it's a cheap place to start I'll probably go ahead and replace it anyways! Where's a good place to start looking for replacements?

...

If you can't get a capacitor locally, assuming that's what you need then I have Used This Source with satisfaction

Just make sure you pick a replacement of equal or higher voltage rating and rated for Run not Start, (to cover either function)

If you slacken the drive belt does the motor start with a snatch or does it slowly gather speed or just sit there and hum ?

Thanks for that! When you say rated for Run not Start, What does that mean in lamens terms? (I don't mean in terms of buying one, because they're clearly labelled haha, but what does it means in terms of practicality? how do they differ?)

I'm not sure how to slacked the drive belt yet and I can't get to it yet.. But basically the first time I turned it on, it started fairly slowly but didn't worry me, second time it just hummed until I pulled the blade down using a wooden block, then after a few times doing that it just hummed and moving the blade didn't start it..

I left it off for a good 3-4 hours and the first time I went back to it I was able to kick start it once more but now it just hums again..

 

[Dissolve]

Here's a picture of the existing capacitor. Maplins is actually about the same price as that eBay shop so I might just order it from there.

I'm sure I'm reading it correctly, but according to the existing cap, the "16uF Motor Run Capacitor 450V, Twin Cable" should be a direct swap for this one?

 

[CHJ]

Run means it is rated for continuous use.
Start means it is intended to have a use cycle of a few seconds before it risks overheating.

 

[Dissolve]

Run means it is rated for continuous use.
Start means it is intended to have a use cycle of a few seconds before it risks overheating.

Thanks for that! I'll try and adjust the belt tomorrow and slacken it off to see how the motor behaves then.. what did you have in mind when proposing something to do with the belt tension?

 

[CHJ]

By slacken I meant all the way so that it is not driving, If the motor spins instantly then it is more than likely not the problem, if it slowly gathers speed or sits and hums then it is most likely capacitor, assuming that is that the motor does not include a centrifugal starting switch which I think unlikely.

This will also alow you to determine where the rattle or noise is being generated, motor or drive chain (wheels,guides etc.)

 

[Dissolve]

UPDATE:

The new capacitor did the trick! But it's still pretty noisy.. it seems to be coming from the motor/lower wheel side of things but I have no idea what.. if i spin the drive chain freehand I get a bit of slight clicking/friction noises but not sure what to try next!

My other problem is the tracking/tires which is giving me a headache! If anyone can assist I started a new topic:
bandsaw-wheel-tracking-tyre-replacing-t68327.html

Thanks guys!

 

[Steve Maskery]

Glad the capacitor trick worked. Now you just need to set the machine up from scratch. Wheel alignment, tracking, tension, guides, job done. Just work your way through it systematically and you will have a nice machine.
S

 

[CHJ]

.....The new capacitor did the trick! But it's still pretty noisy.. it seems to be coming from the motor/lower wheel side of things but I have no idea what.. if i spin the drive chain freehand I get a bit of slight clicking/friction noises but not sure what to try next!..

Glad the prime power is sorted.
Clicks or rumbles from the lower wheel area smack of a duff bearing, worth spinning the lower wheel without the drive belt or blade fitted. May feel rough or even show signs of loose fitting allowing you to flex it back and forth slightly.

Sometimes if the saw has been operated without good dust extraction running dust can accumulate in the wheel bearing cavity and find its way past the seals.
When I fitted a replacement bearing in mine I fitted an additional stiff card washer in the bearing cavity near the outer edge of the cavity to help keep the dust out.

 

[marcros]

might explain the tracking issue too.

 

[Dissolve]

BINGO! I think I've cracked it.

This morning I've been smoothing off the tyres, which helped quite a bit. I checked the wheels are in line and after adding a washer they are! The noises have actually cleared up a lot too. I gave it all another hoover out and it's running much better!

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[RogerBoyle]

Now set the saw up :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Still check the wheels are coplanar though before doing anything else
then carry on setting the saw up. How much effort you put into this will make for a better machine
Things to consider
Eliminate the blade drift :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
How good is the blade that you have with the saw ???
What type of blade is it ???

Try to get the tracking /tension combo correct to eliminate blade drift rather than moving the fence to compensate for it

All this will now dictate how sweet a machine it can be,
Remember a band saw has much more options with blades than any other saw
Get blades to suit the work that YOU will do
Highly recommend Tuffsaws for Blades and advice
Should keep you out of mischief for a couple of hours LOL :twisted: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Roger