The Essential Woodworker by Robert Wearing, published by The Lost Art Press.
This book enjoys a reputation as a classic which is justified, for it is, within its limitations (more on these below), excellent. It is divided into five main parts: Basic Woodworking Skills; Make a Table or Stool; Make a Carcase; Drawers, Handles and Boxes; and Appendices, the latter consisting of descriptions of six different jigs, notes on the teeth of the rip tenon saw and notes on the geometry of diminishing dovetails.
In those sections the entire staple diet of what the would-be woodworker needs to digest is comprehensively covered. All topics are illustrated with clear line drawings (535 in all) and 26 black and white photographs. What is most striking though is the style: few books can have been written in which every word is so carefully chosen and so few wasted. There are no baroque flourishes, no anecdotal asides but rather a concentrated delivery in a sort of Spartan intensity of what the reader needs to know. Rarely can so much hard information have been packed into 252 sides.
Here is the author on testing the fit of two edge joints with each other:
Grip one board in the vice and stand its partner on it for examination. Gently poke one side at the corner. If it pivots (Fig 180) it is high in the middle and a shaving needs to be removed. If the top board does not pivot but falls off, either the joint is good or it is hollow in the centre. Careful inspection will ascertain which. On a long joint, say over 1m (3ft.), a very slight hollow is acceptable. On shorter joints perfection should be aimed for.
Can many other writers match that for straightforward clarity? Is there much more which one could need to know about testing edge joints for fit? The result of the whole book being written in this manner is that it effectively functions as an authoritative reference work as well as a guide for the beginner.
The latter point brings us to the book’s limitations which it inevitably shares with all other “how to” books devoted to practical topics. In his introduction Wearing says, “This is really a pre-textbook. It is aimed mainly at those working alone. The apprentice has the guidance of a master craftsman, while the college student has tutors. Keen amateurs, often working in total isolation, lack this advantage. It is hoped that this book will start them off soundly …”
Unfortunately no book can say to its reader as he works away, “Yes, that’s right, well done” or “You’re sawing to the right a bit because of the position of your feet. Try it more like this.” Thus the beginner, as described by Wearing, is likely to be in for a relatively long learning process even if he or she has read this best of guides. However, these days we have a number of advantages over Wearing’s original readers when the book was first published in 1988: the internet and good woodworking DVDs. The beginner, having read this book and thus having obtained a firm and comprehensive knowledge of his objectives, can then enjoy having them shown to him by somebody who can visually demonstrate the skills. It is worth stressing though that this book is so good that such visual sources function as an enhancement of it and not the other way around. They remain nonetheless a very useful enhancement. It is a pity that Mr Wearing is no longer with us as he could no doubt have produced an exemplary DVD to complement his writing.
This book can safely be recommended to every beginner. It will not only be an infallible tutor but will also serve thereafter as a reliable work of reference.
The book is beautifully bound and printed by The Lost Art Press and is available in the UK from Classic Hand Tools.
This book enjoys a reputation as a classic which is justified, for it is, within its limitations (more on these below), excellent. It is divided into five main parts: Basic Woodworking Skills; Make a Table or Stool; Make a Carcase; Drawers, Handles and Boxes; and Appendices, the latter consisting of descriptions of six different jigs, notes on the teeth of the rip tenon saw and notes on the geometry of diminishing dovetails.
In those sections the entire staple diet of what the would-be woodworker needs to digest is comprehensively covered. All topics are illustrated with clear line drawings (535 in all) and 26 black and white photographs. What is most striking though is the style: few books can have been written in which every word is so carefully chosen and so few wasted. There are no baroque flourishes, no anecdotal asides but rather a concentrated delivery in a sort of Spartan intensity of what the reader needs to know. Rarely can so much hard information have been packed into 252 sides.
Here is the author on testing the fit of two edge joints with each other:
Grip one board in the vice and stand its partner on it for examination. Gently poke one side at the corner. If it pivots (Fig 180) it is high in the middle and a shaving needs to be removed. If the top board does not pivot but falls off, either the joint is good or it is hollow in the centre. Careful inspection will ascertain which. On a long joint, say over 1m (3ft.), a very slight hollow is acceptable. On shorter joints perfection should be aimed for.
Can many other writers match that for straightforward clarity? Is there much more which one could need to know about testing edge joints for fit? The result of the whole book being written in this manner is that it effectively functions as an authoritative reference work as well as a guide for the beginner.
The latter point brings us to the book’s limitations which it inevitably shares with all other “how to” books devoted to practical topics. In his introduction Wearing says, “This is really a pre-textbook. It is aimed mainly at those working alone. The apprentice has the guidance of a master craftsman, while the college student has tutors. Keen amateurs, often working in total isolation, lack this advantage. It is hoped that this book will start them off soundly …”
Unfortunately no book can say to its reader as he works away, “Yes, that’s right, well done” or “You’re sawing to the right a bit because of the position of your feet. Try it more like this.” Thus the beginner, as described by Wearing, is likely to be in for a relatively long learning process even if he or she has read this best of guides. However, these days we have a number of advantages over Wearing’s original readers when the book was first published in 1988: the internet and good woodworking DVDs. The beginner, having read this book and thus having obtained a firm and comprehensive knowledge of his objectives, can then enjoy having them shown to him by somebody who can visually demonstrate the skills. It is worth stressing though that this book is so good that such visual sources function as an enhancement of it and not the other way around. They remain nonetheless a very useful enhancement. It is a pity that Mr Wearing is no longer with us as he could no doubt have produced an exemplary DVD to complement his writing.
This book can safely be recommended to every beginner. It will not only be an infallible tutor but will also serve thereafter as a reliable work of reference.
The book is beautifully bound and printed by The Lost Art Press and is available in the UK from Classic Hand Tools.