Are you thinking about getting a Festool MFT 3?

[Benchwayze]

If you are lusting after one of these tables, there is a way of having the benefits, without the massive cash outlay.

Use a deWalt track saw. It's a very good saw, but it has a different rail design to Festool. However, there is a way you can use the deWalt with the MFT; by using a set of Peter Parfitt's 'Parf-dogs' from Veritas. (Axminster stock them.)

Because the holes in the MFT top are machined with great accuracy, the 'Parf-dogs' can be aligned at exactly 90 or 45 degrees. This means you can align your deWalt track saw against the dogs, without need for the Festool protractor and the guide-rail of the MFT. With this set-up, you can do everything that the Festool saw will do on the MFT.

All of that means you could get by, just by purchasing a spare top for the MFT, instead of the actual table. Mount it on a shop-made table. You can then use your deWalt (or whatever track-saw you have) with the Parf-dogs, instead of the Festool kit. Also, if you want to use a router with your deWalt guide-rail, there is a deWalt router 'carrier' for the deWalt rail enabling use of the deWalt 1/2" router in overhead mode, on the table. (As the deWalt is just an Elu 177e by another name, presumably that router could be used too.)

I hope I explained it properly. I know it will work, and somewhere on the 'Tube, Peter Parfitt, demonstrates his dogs, even using a simple circular saw with them, on the MFT.

HTH someone..

Regards

 

[Grahamshed]

+1 for that. The precision drilling of the holes make the MFT table top the most useful tool in the workshop. Gotta get me one

 

[Benchwayze]

From the viewpoint of machine woodworking the MFT is a Big-Plus in the shop. Its accuracy is beyond question, and the finish from the T55 saw is impeccable. The table does work better when mounted on a heavyweight bench, fitted with castors. (At least I think so) and I shall be attending to that.

I bought mine thinking it would help this old codger with breaking down sheets, and handling larger components when making kitchen cupboards, and the like. This it does, although had I known about the 'Parf-dogs' and the deWalt, at the time I could have saved myself a few bob; but there you go!

I'm sure that someone with a high-end sliding-table saw, could break down sheets quicker than I can on the MFT; but even at Festool prices, my investment is still less than the cost of a good, 12" sliding-table saw; for which I don't have space anyhow. The MFT suits my shop-size, it makes life easier, and I think my Disston will be spending more time on its hook. :? (All I need now is to save up for the TR75 Festool track saw, so I can cut a stack of plywood shelves in one go! :mrgreen: ) Actually I don't. I can use the Parf-dogs with a straight edge, and my ordinary circular saw, which does have a greater depth of cut!)

Regards
John

 

[Grahamshed]

John, Not sure how many of these tops you have but do you happen to know if the hole spacing would be maintained if you put two or more side by side ?

 

[Stu_2]

+1. Using these MFT-style work surfaces with a TS55 has transformed the way I'm able to work. I'm limited for space in my workshop, and these have made all the difference.

I have all the usual TS 55 accessories, and can also vouch for Peter Parfitt's Parf Dogs, which are an excellent value accessory for these tables. One thing to note though is that if you have the current Bosch plunge saw, you will need to have a thin piece of material to lay between your track and the Parf dogs, as the sole plate will not clear them without a spacer strip.

I produce my own 'MFT-style' work surface, and have just started to produce them for others, too. They are 1220 x 600 x 18 Norbord Pro MDF. Holes are 20mm diameter at 100mm centres, which gives a healthy 66 holes per work surface. I use CNC machined templates, which allows me to produce perfectly aligned holes. They're are various options depending on what they're mounted to, but a standard top as described would be £35. I personally use a 1220 x 600 folding table by 'Life-Time' (Costco). I've just made one to mount to Keter folding workbench (Screwfix), and was very impressed by it. Very versatile and sturdy bit of kit, which folds away to a fairly small size 'case' in seconds. Only concern for me would be the availability of spare clamps, as they are proprietary to that bench.

If this helps anyone, feel free to contact me.

Cheers
Stu

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Graham.

As far as I am aware yes. I say this because there is an extension piece you can buy, which is not as big as the main table-top, and I would imagine that Festool cater for that in the design. You can buy a new top, because the table-top is considered as sacrificial after a period of use. This can look a mess after a while, but it makes no difference to the hole spacing or use of the holes. I suppose you could place scrap under the cutting area, but this affects the thickness setting of course, and you have to pack up the workpiece too.

It's also a fairly easy job to make another top, using the original as a template.

HTH

John

There you go. Stu is probably the man to see. In fact, I will make a note for next month Stu! I can always stow a spare top in the attic! :mrgreen:

 

[Skeety]

Having seen both the Festool and Stu_2's version I actually think Stu's is far better quality.

I have one of his tops which we fitted to the Keter Bench last weekend. On the test cuts we did both 90 and 45 degrees using bench dogs and parf dogs which I also use the cuts were checked with a digital angle finder and were 100% accurate

Cheers,

Jon.

 

[Grahamshed]

Stu - Can I ask you the same question. Are the holes set at a distance from the edge that would allow two two be placed side by side and retain the accuracy ?
Or alternatively can you produce longer ones ?

 

[Stu_2]

There you go. Stu is probably the man to see. In fact, I will make a note for next month Stu! I can always stow a spare top in the attic! :mrgreen:

You're more than welcome John

Having seen both the Festool and Stu_2's version I actually think Stu's is far better quality.

I wouldn't go that far, but thanks for the vote of confidence

Stu - Can I ask you the same question. Are the holes set at a distance from the edge that would allow two two be placed side by side and retain the accuracy ?
Or alternatively can you produce longer ones ?

Afternoon Graham

Depends which edge. The hole centres are 50mm from the edge along the 1220mm side, which I'd consider the front and rear edges. However, from the ends the hole centres are 110mm. In theory two could be joined side by side and retain the same spacing, but end to end would require trimming. The only issue would be maintaining a perfectly true grid as my current template is 1200 x 600.

What size do you need the tops to be?

 

[Grahamshed]

Hi Stu
I was thinking of about 6ft x 2 ft ( say 1800 x 600 ) for a bench I am going to build but could be flexible

 

[Stu_2]

Afternoon Graham

Should be possible. I'll need to investigate getting some tooling pins made up, which will enable me to overcome the current size limitation.

I'll check it out and let you know

 

[Grahamshed]

Thanks Stu.

 

[pcb1962]

I have one of his tops which we fitted to the Keter Bench last weekend.

Did you raise it above the benchtop so that you can still screw the M8 knobs into the parfdogs, or don't you bother with the knobs?

 

[Stu_2]

I have one of his tops which we fitted to the Keter Bench last weekend.

Did you raise it above the benchtop so that you can still screw the M8 knobs into the parfdogs, or don't you bother with the knobs?

Evening mate

For Jon's Keter bench i had to fit 2 supports to the work surface, which were about 70mm x 45mm. That clearance height is needed to raise the work surface above the Keter clamping system. If the table were going to sit on a normal flat surface, only 50mm clearance is required to use the Festool or Axminster clamps, as well as accommodating the Festool knobs. If you don't have the knobs, a bolt and washer would do the job.

Cheers
Stu

 

[SteveF]

i am new to this idea

can this be retro-fitted into a workbench as a new build\design feature ?
looks like an option for me..maybe a bit of googling

Steve

 

[Benchwayze]

Steve,

You could include an MDF 'plate' as part of your bench-top. It just needs planning I suppose.
You don't HAVE to use the full matrix of holes. Just enough holes to enable use of the parf-dogs, for the most common cuts you make, which are likely to be 90 and 45 degrees. It's also going to be useful for routing housings across boards. I think the possibilities are limited only by your imagination. It will depend of course on how much hand work you do, and whether or not you want to move over to machines.

HTH

 

[marcros]

i am new to this idea

can this be retro-fitted into a workbench as a new build\design feature ?
looks like an option for me..maybe a bit of googling

Steve

I was thinking this myself. I think that the bench would have to be central- if it was against a wall it would be limiting, and in my opinion a 2ft wide workbench is too wide.

I like the idea of using it on a portable bench somehow- it opens the opportunity for working outside, where sheet materials are that bit easier to deal with. The MFTC looks like a good starting point for ideas, and aside from the track saw cost is probably justifiable where the MFT may not be.

 

[SteveF]

I was thinking more for hand tools than a track saw tbh
ready built holes for dogs
not so much interested in the track saw use
and am I right in thinking that Stu's option could just be ripped narrower than the 600mm?
maybe down to 300mm and have a spare

Steve

 

[marcros]

never thought of it like that.

 

[Stu_2]

I was thinking more for hand tools than a track saw tbh
ready built holes for dogs
not so much interested in the track saw use
and am I right in thinking that Stu's option could just be ripped narrower than the 600mm?
maybe down to 300mm and have a spare

Steve

Morning Steve

Yes, there's no reason why you couldn't rip it to any width/depth you want. You could also have 3/4" dog holes if that better suits your current equipment.

Cheers
Stu