Advice please: site saw benches versus workshop versions

[Eric The Viking]

So there was me, all set to order an Axminster TS-200 with my Christmas money.

It got as far as my on-line shopping basket, before I realised that it didn't have a huge depth of cut. OK, it's pretty versatile (with the accessories), but the blade is only ever going to be the diameter it is (possibly a bit small).

Then I noticed the Jet JTS-315 S.



It's roughly £15 more, but has 90mm depth of cut (more than I'll need), but the user reviews are a bit mixed.

Now that everything's suddenly getting more expensive, I'll definitely be shopping around thoroughly (I wasn't intending this to be an ad for Axminster, and Kity springs immediately to mind), but I looked back through threads and didn't see one discussing the 'site saw' versus 'table saw' comparison. Might we have one now?

The cast iron versus pressed steel tables are an obvious difference, and no slots, obviously, but is there more to it than that? I quite like the idea of something light enough in weight to move around easily (as long as it's stable and rigid). And are site saws much noisier than 'workshop' ones (I'm guessing they have brushed motors, mainly)?

I get a distinct feeling that there's no "free lunch" here, but I'd still be interested to read other people's opinions. If I'm prepared to put up with some limitations, could this be a low-cost route to cutting larger stock fairly precisely?

Cheers,

E.

PS: I want precision for furniture, box-making, etc., and the extra capacity for things like hardwood window frames (not many, admittedly).

 

[harryc]

I think you summed it up in your title the Jet is a site saw and the TS 200 a cabinet saw.

Si if your not too bothered with accuracy and tight tolerances then the Jet will be fine, if o the other hand you are looking at making stuff with a bit of accuracy then its the axi all the way. All depends on what you want from the saw.

 

[flounder]

I have a Makita 2704 on a folding trolley. My choice was somewhat dictated by my lack of available working space ( a 10x8 shed!) and so I needed something that would fold down and up out of the way. The Makita fitted the bill, but at around £600 at the time wasn't a cheap option. To be fair it has done all that I have asked for it and after spending some time fiddling around seems to be fairly accurate. How that will be affected by my constant need to fold it away time will tell. Having said that, if I had the space I would still change it for a decent cabinet saw with cast iron tables, outfeed tables all round and a sliding carriage!

 

[Blister]

Will you be using the saw inside or outside ?

do either have dust extraction ports ?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Will you be using the saw inside or outside ?
do either have dust extraction ports ?

Inside - low ceiling, but reasonable room around it (when I've cleared up a bit!).

Both the ones I indicated have good DX. The Jet has a 100mm port (which surprised me, actually).

 

[János]

Hello,

This Axminster saw is very similar to the Kity I own. 60 mm of cutting depth is enough for smaller scale cabinetwork and box-making. The main drawback of these saws is the throat-plate: the plate is on the right side of the blade, so you can’t make zero clearance inserts, and the gap around the blade is quite wide, and that is not safe for some work.
If I were you, I would look for another saw.


By,

János

 

[stuartpaul]

I think Harry has answered perfectly.

If you want that accuracy then a cabinet saw is what I'd go for. I don't believe a site saw would give you the same degree of accuracy without much more fiddling (not saying you can't, just more difficult).

I disagree with Janos - I've had a 419 for quite some time and haven't found the lack of zero clearance insert a problem and I thrown a wide range of work at it small and large.

 

[Ateallthepies]

Zero clearance plates can be fitted to the TS-200, I put one on mine...

View of the inside showing how I rested the plate...

Of course this is only used for 90 degree cuts and the original plate will need to be used for other angled cuts.

I also got my TS-200 cut depth up to 66mm by fitting a larger 220mm blade. I did this because my saw fully up only cut to 56mm? Some adjusting of the riving knife will be needed for clearance issues if you do this mod...

The Axi saw is a great little saw and with some fettling gives excellent results. There is a complete one on the bay at the moment going for £200, may need a bit of cleaning up though?

HTH,

Steve.

 

[János]

Hello,

Yes, what you need is depends on the work you do. But a small clearance around a circular saw’s blade is a must. I tell it from experience: my Kity throws back smaller/thinner off-cuts violently, because they tip into that wide hole and the spinning blade shots them back. Wedge/trapezoidal shaped off-cuts could be trapped between the edge of the hole and the saw blade, effectively stopping the blade. The guy who designed it never tried to use it, I am sure. Dear Steve, you modified the machine heavily, that would kill off any warranty I think. By the way, the larger blade will cut higher, but you could not set it lower than 10 mm, so you must change the blade for grooving or cutting shoulders, aren’t you?

By,

János

 

[Ateallthepies]

János,

Fully lowered, the blade sits almost flush with the plate. It is about 1mm proud, maybe less. I could probably get it lower than the plate if I forced the winder more but have no need?

Yes I suppose if you want to be sure of keeping any warrentee then you will have to leave the machine alone. I like to fiddle and fettle though and am willing to take the risk.

It's a shame that Axi can't request a little re-design of this saw at the manufacture stage, as with very little work, the saw could take a larger blade for a true 3" or 75mm cut. I am sure this would appeal to many saw users who don't buy the current TS-200 because of the small cut height.
I am unsure if the motor could take the extra load of the deeper cut however and this may be an issue?

Steve.

 

[János]

Hello,

On my Kity the fully lowered 200 mm diameter blade is about three millimetres below the table surface. I use carbide tipped ATG blades most of the time, and as they got smaller from re-sharpening the cutting height diminishes to approx 56 mm.
My machine has an 1100W induction motor, and poly-V driving belt, this setup would be able to drive a little larger, perhaps an 250 mm blade in cutting softer woods at full thickness. These machines are eminent examples of a “flawed design well executed”, as the quality of the materials, machining and workmanship is good, resembling the now gone Metabo Magnum line.

By,

János

 

[Ateallthepies]

One of the reasons I put in a bigger blade was to be able to use sled's and still have the supposed full 60mm cut ( my TS-200 with the 200mm blade only raised to a maximum 56mm cut?). The bases of my sleds are made from 6mm sheet material. If I kept the original blade in I would only have a 50mm max cut when using a sled.

Steve.

 

[mtr1]

I used to have a scheppach TKU, which was pretty good for cabinet work but not perfect. I now have the sedgwick 315, and would never go back to a site saw again. I'm going to get that little axi saw for my workshop at home soon(new house to gut then renovate). I will be selling my scheppach and buying that little saw for sure.